Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
On the 6th of August, at five in the morning, we continued our
route northward, at first on very level ground; after which we
reached a chain of mountains, stretching from E. N. E. to W. S. W.,
and struck into its gorges, following the course of a pretty little
rivulet called Guigo; the road being extremely stony and difficult.
About eight we passed L-Eyara, a village containing from twenty
five to thirty houses, all ill-constructed with a ground-floor
only; this village stands on a rock of black granite. Hitherto our
direction was N. N. E., here we turned due north.
At one P. M. we halted at Tamaroc till the heat, which was intense,
should abate: I lay down upon the grass, in the shade of a fine
rose-laurel, pleasantly situated on the margin of the rivulet,
the freshness and gentle murmurs of which inclined me to sleep. The
hills on each side of the route had no great elevation, and appeared
composed of brittle and coarse-grained rose-coloured granite,
in some parts combined with white quartz. At three P. M., the
heat having somewhat moderated, we proceeded northwards through
the defiles till half past five; we then turned to the west,
still following the sinuosities of the same rivulet. This stony
road led us into a valley, well cropped with corn and maize, the
verdant aspect of which amidst these barren mountains presented
an enchanting spectacle. About seven in the evening we halted at
Kars, where we passed the night. Between Tamaroc and this place,
we saw no more palm-trees.
On the 7th at five A. M., we resumed our journey, first in a
westerly, and subsequently in a northerly direction, still threading
the defiles of the mountains, through a less fertile tract than
that over which we had just passed; here though the country is
still watered by the Guigo it is generally barren.
The roving Berbers, who encamp in these narrow valleys, find
here and there a little forage for their cattle. About eleven
o’clock we arrived at N-Zéland (or Ain-Zéland) our beasts being
much fatigued. The hamlet is inhabited by Berbers, who breed fine
sheep. As these people are accustomed to give nothing to the Moors,
part of our caravan were compelled to forego their supper. The
sherif Sidi-Moula-Sitec ordered a couscous, and sent a portion of
it to the sherifs of the company; the Moors of inferior rank were
not included in the distribution.
The Berbers, thinking to gain something by us, made cakes of
barley-meal, which they sold for a good profit to those who had
money: encouraged by the success of this traffic, they killed two
sheep, which they cooked whole at a large fire, cut up into small
pieces, and sold for four mouganans, a sum equivalent to eight sous
of our money. But our company was so numerous that this provision
proved insufficient, and those who could not obtain any ate dates
only; a poor substitute for more nourishing food.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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