Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
The course of the river, though winding in some parts, is still
northward. On the morning of the 1st of April, I observed a large
hill, about two hundred and fifty feet high, distant three or four
miles from the left bank of the river. It was without vegetation,
and appeared to be composed of red sand.
We daily expected the owner of the canoe, who, on departing from
Jenné, promised to join us in two days. He had assured me, that
even in his absence I should be well treated on board. The case,
however, was quite the reverse, so I looked for him with the utmost
impatience, trusting that his presence would better my condition.
After my departure from Jenné, I had the misery of being the
only white man among the negroes, and with their language I was
unacquainted. This circumstance, joined to my being a stranger,
and almost destitute, emboldened them to insult me in the grossest
manner. I was absolutely ranked and treated as a slave.
During the day the heat was excessive, and I had great trouble
to find a place where I could be shaded from the burning sun,
which was almost insupportable, even in a state of inaction. In
the night I slept on deck, for there was no room for me below. I
was exposed to the dew and all the inclemency of the night; but I
took the precaution of wrapping myself in a sheep-skin. However,
this did not prevent me from being seized, on the 31st March,
with a violent fit of illness. I experienced severe numbness,
followed by great weakness, and my stomach rejected food.
During my illness I was permitted to go into the cabin; but the place
assigned me there was very inconvenient. I was with a Mandingo and
his female slave; and they allowed me so little room that I could
not lie straight; my head touched my knees. I had been particularly
recommended to the care of this negro by the sherif Oulad-Marmou;
but he paid no regard to the directions he had received, and showed
as little pity for me as the rest of the crew. I ought, however,
to exempt from this censure a young Foulah from Massina, to whom
the sherif had also recommended me. He was the only one who had
behaved to me with any kindness. He went on shore whenever I asked
him, bought me milk, and rendered me all the service he could. He
even endeavoured to console me when I expressed dissatisfaction
at the inattention with which I was treated by the rest. He
often reprimanded the slaves, who, following the example of their
superiors, behaved with the grossest insolence towards me. In short,
I should have been much worse off had it not been for the attention
of this kind-hearted young man.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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