Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808 — John Shaqi
Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
History
Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808
Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
France -- Description and travel
When I came down into the inn-yard, no one was stirring in the house
except the ostler, who, upon my mentioning the component items of my
entertainment, very fairly, as I thought, reckoned them up, and received
the amount, taking care to remind me of the chambermaid. Having with
some difficulty likewise procured from him a glass of milk, I mounted my
horse, and followed the conscripts, who, with drum and fife, were
merrily but regularly marching before me. The regularity of the march
continued only till they got beyond the town, and down the hill, when
the music ceased, the ranks broke, and every one walked or ran as he
pleased. As they were somewhat too noisy for a meditating traveller, I
put my horse to his mettle, and soon left them at a convenient distance.
I must cursorily observe, that the main circumstance which struck me in
this detachment, was the extreme youth of the major part. I saw not a
man amongst them, and some of them had an air the most perfectly
childish. Bonaparte is said to prefer these young recruits. No army in
Europe would have admitted them, with the exception of the French.
The road was truly excellent, though hilly, and indeed so continued till
within a few miles of Abbeville. The present Emperor acts so far upon
the system of the ancient monarchy, and considers the goodness of the
highways as the most important and most immediate object of the
administration; accordingly, the roads in France are still better than
under the Bourbons, as Bonaparte sees every thing with his own eyes.
Nothing, indeed, is wanting to quick travelling in France, but English
drivers and English carriages. How would a mail-coach roll upon such a
road! The French postillions, and even the French horses, such as I met
on the road, have a kind of activity without progress--the postillions
are very active in cracking their whips over their heads, and the horses
shuffle about without mending their pace.
I passed several country labourers, men and women, going to their daily
toil. I was informed by one of them, that he worked in the hay-field,
and earned six-and-thirty sous (1_s._ 6_d._) a day; that the wages for
mowers were fifty sous (2_s._ 1_d._), and two bottles of wine or cyder;
that his wife had fourteen sous and her food; and boys and children old
enough to rake, from six to twelve sous. He paid 25 livres annually for
the rent of his cottage. When he had to support himself, he breakfasted
on bread, and a glass or more of strong wine or brandy; dined on bread
and cheese, and supped on bread and an apple. He wore leather shoes,
except in wet weather, when he wore _sabots_, which cost about twelve
sous per pair.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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