Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
History
Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808
Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
France -- Description and travel
After a very long journey, in which my little Norman had performed to
admiration, I reached Amiens about eight o'clock, on the sweetest summer
evening imaginable. The aspect of Amiens, as it is approached by the
road, resembles Canterbury--the cathedral rising above the town--the
town, as it were, gathering around it as its parent and protector. My
companion would not leave me till he had seen me to the inn, the _Hotel
d'Angleterre_, when he took a farewell of me as if we had been intimate
for years, and I have no doubt, thought no more of me after he had
turned the corner of the street. These attentions, however, are not the
less pleasing, and answer their purpose as well as if they were more
permanent. Having ordered my supper, and seen my horse duly provided
for, I walked through the town, which is clean, lively, and in many
respects resembling towns of the third rate in England. I visited the
cathedral, which pleased me much; but has been so often described, that
I deem it unnecessary to say more of it. It was built by the English in
the time of Henry VI. and the regency of the Duke of Bedford, and has
much of the national taste of that people, and those times. Though
strictly Gothic, it is light, and very tastefully ornamented: it
infinitely exceeds any cathedral in England, with the exception of
Westminster Abbey. I went to see likewise the _Chateau d'Eau_, the
machine for supplying Amiens with water. There is nothing more than
common in it, and the purpose would be answered better by pipes and a
steam-engine. It excited one observation which I have since frequently
made--that the French, with all their parade of science and ostentation
of institutions, are still a century behind England in real practical
knowledge. My Tour in France has at least taught me one lesson--never to
be deceived by high-sounding names and pompous designations. I have not
visited their schools for nothing. The French talk; the English act. A
steady plodding Englishman will build an house, while a Frenchman is
laying down rules for it. There is more of this idle pedantry in France
than in any country on the face of the globe: every thing is done with
science, and nothing with knowledge.
Walking through the market-place, my attention was taken by an unusual
bustle--the erecting of scaffolds, booths, and other similar
preparations. I learned, upon inquiry, that the half-yearly fair was to
be held on the following day; a piece of information which confirmed my
previous intention of passing that day at Amiens.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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