Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773Bruce, James
History
Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773
Bruce, James
Egypt -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- History; Natural history -- Ethiopia; Nile River
Two standards of white silk, striped with red, were carried before
him to the mosque, from whence he went to his own house to receive
the compliments of his friends. In the afternoon of that day I went
to pay my respects to him, and found him sitting on a large wooden
elbow-chair, at the head of two files of naked savages, who made an
avenue from his chair to the door. He had nothing upon him but a coarse
cotton shirt, so dirty that, it seemed, all pains to clean it again
would be thrown away, and so short that it scarcely reached his knees.
He was very tall and lean, his colour black, had a large mouth and
nose; in place of a beard, a very scanty tuft of grey hairs upon the
point of his chin; large, dull, and heavy eyes; a kind of malicious,
contemptuous, smile on his countenance; he was altogether of a most
stupid and brutal appearance. His character perfectly corresponded
with his figure, for he was a man of mean abilities, cruel to excess,
avaricious, and a great drunkard.
I presented my firman.--The greatest basha in the Turkish empire would
have risen upon seeing it, kissed it, and carried it to his forehead;
and I really expected that Omar Aga, for the day he bore that title,
and received the caftan, would have shewn this piece of respect to his
master. But he did not even receive it into his hand, and pushed it
back to me again, saying, “Do you read it all to me word for word.”--“I
told him it was Turkish; that I had never learned to read a word of
that language.”--“Nor I either,” says he; “and I believe I never
shall.” I then gave him Metical Aga’s letter, the Sherriffe’s, Ali
Bey’s, and the Janizaries letters. He took them all together in both
his hands, and laid them unopened beside him, saying, “You should
have brought a moullah along with you. Do you think I shall read all
these letters? Why, it would take me a month.” And he glared upon me,
with his mouth open, so like an idiot, that it was with the utmost
difficulty I kept my gravity, only answering, “Just as you please; you
know best.”
He affected at first not to understand Arabic; spoke by an interpreter
in the language of Masuah, which is a dialect of Tigré; but seeing I
understood him in this, he spoke Arabic, and spoke it well.
A silence followed this short conversation, and I took the opportunity
to give him his present, with which he did not seem displeased, but
rather that it was below him to tell me so; for, without saying a
word about it, he asked me, where the Abuna of Habesh was? and why he
tarried so long? I said, The wars in Upper Egypt had made the roads
dangerous; and, it was easy to see, Omar longed much to settle accounts
with him.
I took my leave of the Naybe, very little pleased with my reception,
and the small account he seemed to make of my letters, or of myself;
but heartily satisfied with having sent my dispatches to Janni, now far
out of his power.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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