Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773Bruce, James
History
Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773
Bruce, James
Egypt -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- History; Natural history -- Ethiopia; Nile River
There are many agreeable spots to the south-east of the convent, on the
banks of this river, which are thick-shaded with wood and bushes. Adowa
consists of about 300 houses, and occupies a much larger space than
would be thought necessary for these to stand on, by reason that each
house has an inclosure round it of hedges and trees; the last chiefly
the wanzey. The number of these trees so planted in all the towns,
screen them so, that, at a distance, they appear so many woods. Adowa
was not formerly the capital of Tigré, but has accidentally become
so upon the accession of this governor, whose property, or paternal
estate, lay in and about it. His mansion-house is not distinguished
from any of the others in the town unless by its size; it is situated
upon the top of the hill. The person who is Michael’s deputy, in his
absence, lives in it. It resembles a prison rather than a palace; for
there are in and about it above three hundred persons in irons, some
of whom have been there for twenty years, mostly with a view to extort
money from them; and, what is the most unhappy, even when they have
paid the sum of money which he asks, do not get their deliverance from
his merciless hands; most of them are kept in cages like wild beasts,
and treated every way in the same manner.
But what deservedly interested us most was, the appearance of our kind
and hospitable landlord, Janni. He had sent servants to conduct us
from the passage of the river, and met us himself at the outer-door of
his house. I do not remember to have seen a more respectable figure.
He had his own short white hair, covered with a thin muslin turban, a
thick well-shaped beard, as white as snow, down to his waist. He was
clothed in the Abyssinian dress, all of white cotton, only he had a
red silk sash, embroidered with gold, about his waist, and sandals
on his feet; his upper garment reached down to his ancles. He had a
number of servants and slaves about him of both sexes; and, when I
approached him, seemed disposed to receive me with marks of humility
and inferiority, which mortified me much, considering the obligations
I was under to him, the trouble I had given, and was unavoidably still
to give him. I embraced him with great acknowledgments of kindness and
gratitude, calling him father; a title I always used in speaking either
to him or of him afterwards, when I was in higher fortune, which he
constantly remembered with great pleasure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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