Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773Bruce, James
History
Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773
Bruce, James
Egypt -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- History; Natural history -- Ethiopia; Nile River
He conducted us through a court yard planted with jessamin, to a
very neat, and, at the same, time, large room, furnished with a silk
sofa; the floor was covered with Persian carpets and cushions. All
round, flowers and green leaves were strewed upon the outer yard;
and the windows and sides of the room stuck full of evergreens, in
commemoration of the Christmas festival that was at hand. I stopt at
the entrance of this room; my feet were both dirty and bloody; and
it is not good-breeding to show or speak of your feet in Abyssinia,
especially if any thing ails them, and, at all times, they are
covered. He immediately perceived the wounds that were upon mine. Both
our cloaths and flesh were torn to pieces at Taranta, and several other
places; but he thought we had come on mules furnished us by the Naybe.
For the young man I had sent to him from Kella, following the genius
of his countrymen, tho’ telling truth was just as profitable to him as
lying, had chosen the latter, and seeing the horse I had got from the
Baharnagash, had figured in his own imagination, a multitude of others,
and told Janni that there were with me horses, asses, and mules in
great plenty; so that when Janni saw us passing the water, he took me
for a servant, and expected, for several minutes, to see the splendid
company arrive, well mounted upon horses and mules caparisoned.
He was so shocked at my saying that I performed this terrible journey
on foot, that he burst into tears, uttering a thousand reproaches
against the Naybe for his hard heartedness and ingratitude, as he had
twice, as he said, hindered Michael from going in person and sweeping
the Naybe from the face of the earth. Water was immediately procured to
wash our feet. And here began another contention, Janni insisted upon
doing this himself; which made me run out into the yard, and declare
I would not suffer it. After this, the like dispute took place among
the servants. It was always a ceremony in Abyssinia, to wash the feet
of those that come from Cairo, and who are understood to have been
pilgrims at Jerusalem.
This was no sooner finished, than a great dinner was brought,
exceedingly well dressed. But no consideration or intreaty could
prevail upon my kind landlord to sit down and partake with me. He
would stand, all the time, with a clean towel in his hand, though
he had plenty of servants; and afterwards dined with some visitors,
who had come out of curiosity, to see a man arrived from so far.
Among these was a number of priests; apart of the company which I
liked least, but who did not shew any hostile appearance. It was long
before I cured my kind landlord of these respectful observances, which
troubled me very much; nor could he wholly ever get rid of them, his
own kindness and good heart, as well as the pointed and particular
orders of the Greek patriarch, Mark, constantly suggesting the same
attention.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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