Trichocosmos: Notes historical, æsthetical, ethnological, physiological, anecdotal and tonsorial, on the hair & beardAnonymous
History
Trichocosmos: Notes historical, æsthetical, ethnological, physiological, anecdotal and tonsorial, on the hair & beard
Anonymous
Barbering; Beards; Hair; Hairdressing; Wigs
The introduction of the ample perriwig has always been regarded as
the most ambitious effort of tonsorial art. And as it rarely happens
that any one mind is capable of perfecting a discovery by a single
effort; so the honour of conceiving the beau ideal of a fully-developed
wig can scarcely, with justice, be claimed by any particular artist.
Like the Absolutism, of which it may be regarded as the symbol, it
was the growth of time, and expanded to its fullest dimensions under
the favouring rule of the Grand Monarque. During that long reign,
extending over the greater part of a century, the Wig sat supreme upon
the brows of one of the great Princes of the Earth, at whose nod the
nations trembled; whose wrath was fire and desolation, as the ruined
towns of the Palatinate may still bear witness (Rex dixit, et factum
est); whose ambition was fed with war and conquest; but whose heart
was all as false as the smooth curls which counterfeited the graces of
perpetual youth.
The true morphological development of the wig appears to have been
after this fashion. First of all a small portion of artificial hair
was cunningly inserted among the natural curls, to eke out the economy
of Nature; this suggested the idea of two supplementary bunches;
then a third was added; these in turn were connected by a coif, and
the result was the _perruque à calotte_. It is recorded of the
Cardinal de Richelieu that he was the first to introduce this form of
peruke at court. It formed part of the attire of the Duke of Bedford,
so whimsically described by De Grammont to Charles II. “Sir,” said he,
“I had the honour to see him embark in his coach, with his asthma, and
country equipage, his _perruque à calotte_ neatly tied with a
yellow riband, and his old-fashioned hat covered with oil-skin, which
became him uncommonly well.” The first appearance of Louis Quatorze in
his grand peruke is not duly set forth with historic accuracy; but the
important part it played in the daily routine of court etiquette is
well known. The chief valet slept in the king’s apartment and called
him at the appointed hour. Then it was announced in the ante-chamber
that the king was awake. In came the members of the royal family
to wish him “good morning;” after them, the first gentleman of the
chamber, the grand master of the wardrobe and other officers bringing
the king’s dresses. From a silver gilt vessel the valet pours spirits
of wine on the royal hands, and a duke presents the holy water. After
a very short religious service, the king’s perruques are laid before
him, and choice is made of one most pleasing to his majesty, which
is subsequently elevated to the head by the king’s own hand. Other
ceremonies disposed of, the king must be shaved: one holds the basin,
another adjusts the shaving-cloth and applies the razor; a soft sponge
dipped in spirit of wine is passed over the royal face, and afterwards
pure water in the same manner, which completes the operation, the chief
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