Trichocosmos: Notes historical, æsthetical, ethnological, physiological, anecdotal and tonsorial, on the hair & beardAnonymous
History
Trichocosmos: Notes historical, æsthetical, ethnological, physiological, anecdotal and tonsorial, on the hair & beard
Anonymous
Barbering; Beards; Hair; Hairdressing; Wigs
Binette was the great perruquier of that Augustan age. Without his aid
neither king nor courtiers could go forth in becoming fashion. His
carriage and running footmen were constantly to be seen passing to
and fro the streets of Paris, in attendance on the nobility. In 1656,
Louis le Grand appointed forty wig-makers to wait upon the Court, and
in 1673 a corporation of _Barbiers-perruquiers_, consisting of
200 members, was established to supply the commonalty of Paris. At
one time the minister Colbert, judging from the large sum of money
remitted from France to foreign countries for hair, that the balance
of trade was against his own country, was desirous of introducing some
kind of cap to take the place of the wig, and spoke to the king on the
subject; but the wig-makers took the alarm, memorialized the king, and
showed from statistics that the profit on wigs exported from Paris more
than equalled the sum paid to foreigners for the material; so that
Colbert’s project was laid aside, and wigs and wig-makers flourished
more than ever. The number of licenses was now increased to 850, and
the members known under the title of _barbiers-perruquiers_,
_baigneurs-etuvistes_. The corporation had its provost, wardens,
and syndics, which were appointed by letters patent, and the offices
were hereditary. The king bestowed on this corporation the sole right
of dealing in hair, either by wholesale or retail; of making and
selling powder or pomatum; preparations to remove the hair; drops
for the cure of toothache, &c. The use of powder was not at first
sanctioned by the monarch, but at last he yielded to the wishes of his
courtiers, and permitted a trifling quantity to be sprinkled on his
own perukes. Not only was the wig a thing of magnitude, it possessed
also considerable weight; a stylish wig weighed rather more than a
couple of pounds, and was worth, according to the best authorities, a
thousand crowns. Light hair was most esteemed, and fetched at times
as much as eighty francs the ounce. To prevent imposition, it was
ordered that no second-hand wigs should be sold, except by certain
dealers on the _Quai de l’Horloge_. When these costly wigs were
first introduced the wearers appeared in the streets, in all sorts of
weather, with their hats in their hands, so anxious were they not to
disarrange their well-ordered curls. Menage has preserved a poem of
that period which ridicules the custom, and concludes thus:
“Critics, how narrow are your views,
Who thus the prudent youth abuse!
By a just value he is led
Both of his wig and of his head;
The one he knows was dearly bought,
The other would not fetch a groat.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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