Trichocosmos: Notes historical, æsthetical, ethnological, physiological, anecdotal and tonsorial, on the hair & beard — John Shaqi
Trichocosmos: Notes historical, æsthetical, ethnological, physiological, anecdotal and tonsorial, on the hair & beardAnonymous
History
Trichocosmos: Notes historical, æsthetical, ethnological, physiological, anecdotal and tonsorial, on the hair & beard
Anonymous
Barbering; Beards; Hair; Hairdressing; Wigs
Some old-fashioned “rules for seemly behaviour” have been handed to
certain learned antiquaries as genuine regulations of the craft; but
old birds are not to be caught with chaff, and the archæologist knows
better. The forfeits are said to have been incurred by meddling with
the razors, talking about cutting throats, swearing, pricking another
with the spurs, taking another’s turn, interrupting the barber, and
such like venial offences. It was formerly the custom to apply the soap
with the hand when lathering the beard; the practice of using a brush
was a French innovation, not known in England till the year 1756. Nor
must we omit to mention that contrivance of the dark ages, the barber’s
candlestick, which consisted of an upright wooden stem, pointed at the
lower end, which was fixed in the apron string, and a projecting branch
moveable round the stem to hold the candle.
Down even to the time of Queen Anne the barber’s shop was frequented
by the better sort of people, and the hand that trimmed the tradesman
curled the courtier. In Green’s “Quip for an Upstart Courtier,” (1592),
we read, “With quaint terms you greet Master Velvet-breeches withal,
and at every word a snap with your scissors, and a cringe with your
knee; whereas, when you come to poor Cloth-breeches, you either cut his
beard at your own pleasure, or else in disdain ask him if he will be
trimmed with Christ’s cut, round like the half of a Holland cheese?”
Some of the old histories afford curious glimpses of the varied
fortunes of the trade. In the time of Henry VI., the king’s palace was
surrounded by little barbers’ shops, under the direction of the barber
of the household. There being then no carriages, and the streets being
dirty, it is probable that those who went to court were first shaved
and dressed in these shops. A considerable fee was given to this barber
for shaving every Knight of the Bath, on his creation; forty shillings
from every baron; one hundred shillings from every earl; and ten pounds
from every duke. The barbers of London were first incorporated by
King Edward IV., in 1461, and at that time were the only persons who
practised surgery. In France the Company of Barbers dates from 1096.
An association called the Company of Surgeons was then formed prior to
the act of Henry VIII., regulating the trade of barbers and surgeons.
This act incorporated the company of surgeons with the barbers, under
the name of the Barbers and Surgeons of London, and defined the duties
of both professions: the barbers were not to practice surgery further
than drawing of teeth, and the surgeons were strictly prohibited from
exercising the craft of shaving. It is needless to add, that to a much
later period, any act of parliament to the contrary notwithstanding,
the barber did as much of the surgeon’s work as he could get. In
certain articles devised by Henry VIII. for the establishment of good
order in his household and chambers, there is an order by which the
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