Triumphs and Wonders of the 19th Century: The True Mirror of a Phenomenal Era: A volume of original, entertaining and instructive historic and descriptive writings, showing the many and marvellous achievements which distinguish an hundred years of material, intellectual, social and moral progressBoyd, James P. (James Penny)
History
Triumphs and Wonders of the 19th Century: The True Mirror of a Phenomenal Era: A volume of original, entertaining and instructive historic and descriptive writings, showing the many and marvellous achievements which distinguish an hundred years of material, intellectual, social and moral progress
Boyd, James P. (James Penny)
Inventions; Progress
The subject of shedding, i. e., of opening the warp-threads to afford
a passage for the shuttle, is so inseparably connected with the name
of Jacquard, that attention is now carried to that wonderful invention
evolved in the first few years of the present century, and by the use
of which it may truly be said that anything can be woven as figure
in a fabric that can be designed by the hand of man. It is as well
adapted for the finest silks as for heavy carpets and figured velvets,
and by an operation theoretically so simple as to excite wonder that
it remained hidden until this age. Jacquard was a native of France
and exhibited his machine complete in 1804, but so bitter was the
opposition that the first machine was destroyed and burned. Its
merits were clear, however, and reconstruction and general adoption
in France followed soon after. It has since been applied not only for
shedding but for every purpose where mechanical operations could be
controlled by a pattern. In brief, this machine simply controls each
warp thread separately by a cord having a hook attached. These hooks
are arranged near the path of a reciprocating griffe or frame carrying
cross bars, and are controlled, as to engagement with the bars, by a
card perforated according to a pattern; thus any one or any number of
threads can be raised at will. The dobbie controls harness frames each
carrying a large number of warp threads; the Jacquard controls every
thread separately. The greatly increased capacity of the latter machine
is apparent. Thus a 1500-hook Jacquard will do the work of thirty
dobbies of fifty jacks each.
The hand-shuttle box mechanism of Kay’s time has developed into the
machine operated as a sliding or revolving shuttle-box controlled by
pattern devices, which, being added to a dobbie or Jacquard equipped
loom within the last twenty-five years, presents the highest point
of perfection attained in the textile art. In such looms the warp
threads, arranged in any colors, may be raised at will collectively or
individually, any one of ten or twelve different colored wefts may be
introduced as desired, and combinations may thus be formed to produce
designs of the most complicated nature.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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