Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, East -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa; Slave trade
Somewhere in the Shiré Highlands, in 1859, Livingstone saw a large
lake--Lake Shirwa--which is still almost unknown. It lies away to
the East, and is bounded by a range of mountains whose lofty summits
are visible from the hills round Blantyre. Thinking it might be a
useful initiation to African travel if I devoted a short time to its
exploration, I set off one morning accompanied by two members of the
Blantyre staff and a small retinue of natives. Steering across
country in the direction in which it lay, we found, two days before
seeing the actual water, that we were already on the ancient bed of
the lake. Though now clothed with forest, the whole district has
obviously been under water at a comparatively recent period, and the
shores of Lake Shirwa probably reached at one time to within a few
miles of Blantyre itself. On reaching the lake a very aged female
chief came to see us, and told us how, long, long ago, a white man
came to her village and gave her a present of cloth. Of the white
man, who must have been Livingstone, she spoke very kindly; and,
indeed, wherever David Livingstone's footsteps are crossed in Africa
the fragrance of his memory seems to remain.
The waters of Shirwa are brackish to the taste, and undrinkable; but
the saltness must have a peculiar charm for game, for nowhere else in
Africa did I see such splendid herds of the larger animals as here.
The zebra was especially abundant; and so unaccustomed to be
disturbed are these creatures, that with a little care one could
watch their movements safely within a very few yards. It may seem
unorthodox to say so, but I do not know if among the larger animals
there is any thing handsomer in creation than the zebra. At close
quarters his striped coat is all but as fine as the tiger's, while
the form and movement of his body are in every way nobler. The gait
certainly, is not to be compared for gracefulness with that of the
many species of antelope and deer who nibble the grass beside him,
and one can never quite forget that scientifically he is an ass; but
taking him all in all, this fleet and beautiful animal ought to have
a higher place in the regard of man than he has yet received.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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