Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, East -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa; Slave trade
white spotted kingfisher, if less beautiful, is much more energetic,
and darts about the bank incessantly, coquetting with the boat from
reach to reach, and seldom allowing an inspection close enough to
take in the details of his piebald coat.
One interests oneself in these things more particularly because there
is nothing at first especially striking about the river scenery
itself. Ten or twenty feet of bank cuts off the view on either side,
and large and varied features are wanting. The banks are lined with
the densest jungle of mangroves and aquatic grasses, while creepers
of a hundred kinds struggle for life among the interlacing stems. We
saw crocodiles here in such numbers that count was very soon lost.
They were of all sizes, from the baby specimen which one might take
home in a bottle to the enormous bullet-proof brute the size of an
81-ton gun. These revolting animals take their siesta in the heat of
the day, lying prone upon the bank, with their wedge-shaped heads
directed towards the water. When disturbed they scuttle into the
river with a wriggling movement, the precipitancy of which defies the
power of sight. The adjustment of the adult crocodile to its
environment in the matter of color is quite remarkable. The younger
forms are lighter yellow, and more easily discoverable, but it takes
the careful use of a good pair of eyes to distinguish in the gnarled
slime-covered log lying among the rotting stumps the living form of
the mature specimen. Between the African crocodiles and the
alligators there is the slightest possible external difference;
although the longer head, the arrangement of scales, the fringed feet
with their webbed toes, the uniform teeth, and the protrusion of the
large canine, distinguish them from their American allies.
Many of the ibises I shot as we moved along, for food for the men,
who, like all Africans, will do anything for flesh in whatever form.
For ourselves, we lived upon emaciated fowls and tinned meats,
cooking them at a fire on the bank when the boat stopped. Eggs are
never eaten by the natives, but always set; although, if you offer to
buy them, the natives will bring you a dozen from a sitting hen,
which they assure you were laid that very morning. In the interior,
on many occasions afterwards, these protestations were tested, and
always proved false. One time, when nearly famished and far from
camp, I was brought a few eggs which a chief himself guaranteed had
that very hour been laid. With sincere hope that he might be right,
but with much misgiving, I ordered the two freshest looking to be
boiled. With the despair of a starving man I opened them. They were
cock and hen.
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