Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
For the first time for some years we saw again, not only middle-aged
women, but women of a middle age, that were both well preserved and
good-looking. In most countries the men have their proper allowance
of the complete seven ages, but out of England, and in Eastern
countries especially, it is rare to find women of the poorer classes
who have more than three--namely, childhood, girlhood, and decrepit
old age. From the second to the third is only a step, and a young
girl has scarcely passed the bloom of early youth ere she changes in
a marvellously short time into a wrinkled, toothless, shrivelled old
woman. It was really refreshing to look at the good-looking women
of uncertain age at Sinope; they had such a bright, matronly, and,
if the simile may be used, such a sunshiny air about them.
The people seemed wonderfully good-natured, and bestowed upon us many
nods and pleasant looks, as if they were really glad to see strangers
in their little town.
Leaving the Greek quarter, we came to a broad, open space, with a few
groups of cypress scattered about--the Turkish burial-ground, chosen
with much taste, as is usually the case with Turkish cemeteries. Placed
on the narrowest part of the isthmus that unites the promontory to
the mainland, it commands lovely views over both bays.
We crossed a shaky draw-bridge, and, passing under an old mouldering
gateway, found ourselves in the Turkish town--in the real region
of true believers--not modern Turks, such as are now mostly seen
in Constantinople, in Frank dresses and polished boots, but amongst
grave, old-fashioned Moslems, arrayed in the flowing robes and large
decorous turbans of days gone by.
The women, not nominally veiled in transparent and becoming clouds
of muslin, but closely wrapped in sheets of such uncompromising
calico that not even the tip of a nose could be seen, glided about
like spectres, occasionally stopping under the shadow of a wall, to
peep curiously at the unwonted spectacle of Christian women passing
through their streets.
Finding ourselves in such an assemblage of "The Faithful," I became
suddenly conscience-stricken on account of my cambric morning gown,
which was really very pretty, but unhappily of a delicate green!! We
could not but see the angry glances cast on the objectionable shade,
so, although the evening was very oppressive, I hastened to hide myself
as much as possible under the folds of a large shawl, doing my best,
therefore, to prevent the scandal of the sacred colour being seen on
an unbelieving "Giaour."
Dried fish and tobacco seemed the staple commodities of the place,
and in spite of the exceeding cleanliness both of houses and people,
they cause an ancient and fish-like odour to linger in the streets.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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