Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
Leaving the town by a gate opposite to that by which we had entered,
we found ourselves on the sea-shore. The big waves came tumbling in
on the beach in great angry masses, and as they poured back again
with a sullen roar, the old walls of the town seemed to quiver to
their foundations, as if many more high tides and stormy seas would
speedily lay them low. But old and tottering as they appear, they
have for nearly three centuries resisted the efforts of their enemy,
and the waves, by their own violence, have helped to make a little
sand-bank that now seems to protect the ancient walls from their
too near approach. The air was heavy and oppressive, giving that
sensation of nervous foreboding that so often precedes physical or
mental trouble. A long line of lurid clouds showed where the sun had
gone down with angry redness, and some very dark streaks on the grey
waters at the horizon seemed to say that to-morrow's rising would be
as stormy as to-night's farewell.
The Austrian consul tells us that for some years the storm of the
year has always taken place during the last week in September, the
26th being an especially fatal day. That luckless period is now over,
so we venture to hope that the muttering tempest may but be moving
on its way to other seas.
Though the short twilight was scarcely over as we again crossed the
Greek quarter, not a soul was to be seen--not a light glimmered at
a window; every street was silent and deserted. After the customary
dance the people of Sinope, like the birds, go to bed with the sun,
and a feeling came over us as if we were guilty of some degree of
fastness, almost of dissipation, in not also being at home and in bed,
like other respectable people, though it was little past eight o'clock.
A few hours later the storm burst forth in good earnest, and raged
all night with great fury. Towards morning the wind somewhat suddenly
went down, but a tremendous sea was running beyond the roadstead.
Three large steamers put in soon after dawn. One of them close by
us presents a really pitiable spectacle. There are between four and
five hundred Persians on board, and the deck is a scene of dirt and
wretchedness such as would be difficult to find equalled. The Persians
will never separate from their luggage; they sit on their goods all
day and sleep on them all night. During the heavy sea yesterday the
waves washed completely over the vessel, drenching these miserable
creatures as well as their goods. From the deck being so encumbered the
water could not escape, and these wretched people were lying for hours
as in a bath, and in a frightful state of prostration and suffering,
the combined effects of terror and sea-sickness. Some of them are now
trying to dry their rags in the occasional gleams of sunshine, and
the ship is covered with sheep-skins, bits of old shawls, carpets, and
the complicated articles of clothing only known to Eastern toilettes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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