Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
The Dervishes assemble every Tuesday and Friday, the ceremonial being
the same on both days. On arriving at the Tekké, or place of worship,
we were taken to a large room on the upper storey. A gallery ran round
three sides of this apartment, portions of it being partitioned off
for the use of the Sultan and of Turkish ladies.
A large circular space is railed off in the centre of the room and
reserved for the Dervishes. A few women and children, some Turkish
officers and soldiers, were also seated in the gallery near us. No
other foreigners were present besides ourselves.
About twenty Dervishes speedily arrived, and their Mollah or Sheik,
a venerable old man, with a long white beard, seated himself before
the niche that indicated the direction of Mecca. The Dervishes stood
before him in a semicircle, without shoes, their arms crossed upon
their breasts, and their eyes humbly cast upon the ground. They were
all without exception pallid and haggard, and apparently belonged
to quite the lower classes. One was a mere boy of about thirteen or
fourteen, another was blind, a third was a negro.
After a few sentences, recited from the Koran, the Dervishes, headed
by their mollah, began to march slowly round and round the enclosure,
adapting their steps to the music (if it could be so called) of a
tom-tom and a sort of flute, that from time to time uttered a low
melancholy wail.
After having made four or five rounds, the mollah returned to his
seat, and the Dervishes, throwing off their cloaks, appeared in white
jackets and long yellow petticoats.
The mollah began to pray aloud, and, as if inspired by the prayer
to which they listened with upturned faces, the Dervishes began to
turn round; slowly at first, but then as the heavenly visions became
more and more vivid, they extended their arms above their heads,
they closed their eyes, and their countenances showed that they were
in a trance of ecstatic joy.
The mollah ceased to pray, but round and round went the whirling
figures, faster and faster. It was a wonderful sight, so many men
moving with such rapidity, all apparently unconscious, yet never did
one touch the other.
The only sound heard was the occasional flutter of a petticoat,
and the unearthly noise of the music from the gallery, for as the
movements became more rapid, so did the tom-tom increase in vehemence,
and the wailings of the flute became more and more dismally dreadful.
The effect was singular upon us spectators in the gallery. After a
time many of our neighbours seemed to become, as it were, infected
with the extraordinary scene below, their eyes became fixed, and they
began rocking themselves to and fro in rhythm with the movements of
the Dervishes.
We were also becoming quite giddy from assisting at such a fatiguing
religion, when, happily for us, the mollah bowed his head; in an
instant each man stopped short, and bowed as quietly as if nothing
had happened.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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