Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
The yacht was made fast apparently to the frigate, and off we set,
but such was the force of the stream that, at an awkward corner near
Bebek, the immense hawser, that looked as if nothing could break it,
snapped in two like a bit of thread, and the yacht spun round with
the velocity of an opera-dancer. Happily the danger had been foreseen
and guarded against, but we were swept so close in against the shore
that the jib-boom knocked down a piece of garden railing, and nearly
spitted a most respectable old Turk, who was sitting calmly smoking
on his terrace. Some time and much patience were required before the
yacht could be again attached to the frigate, but at last two hawsers
made her fast, and we proceeded on our way up the Bosphorus.
This beautiful stream is very unique in its characteristics, for
while the waters have the depth, brilliancy, and life of the sea,
its shores are cultivated and wooded like the banks of a river. The
gentle sloping hills are covered with dwelling-houses and kiosks, while
the terraces and gardens of stately palaces line the shore. The Turks
have much taste, and are also great lovers of flowers. The gardens,
therefore, are well laid out, and generally well kept. The climate also
is favourable, though the winters are cold, snow sometimes lying on
the ground for many days. The beautiful American trumpet-creeper grows
in perfection, and may be seen hanging over almost every garden wall,
its large bunches of orange-coloured flowers being in lovely contrast
with the brilliant green foliage. Orange trees and myrtles do well,
although they do not attain the same size and luxuriance as in Sicily
and Greece.
Turkish houses are exceedingly picturesque in appearance. They are
seldom more than two storeys high, have many irregular projections,
and the overhanging roofs extend considerably beyond the walls. They
are usually built of wood, and are painted white, stone colour,
or pale yellow.
Both inside and out they look exquisitely clean; indeed, inside
not a speck of dust is to be seen, the floors are covered with
beautiful matting, and the walls are usually painted a delicate
cream colour. But, alas! a Turkish house is but a whited sepulchre,
for beneath this pure surface vermin prevail to such an extent that
at night they come out by hundreds. It is a horrible plague, but by
constantly painting and the free use of turpentine, most foreigners
succeed in time in ridding their houses of these torments.
We once made a painful experience of the deceptiveness of
appearances. During the summer, our evil angel induced us, and the
Countess S--, the wife of one of the diplomats, to accept an invitation
from a very rich Armenian merchant to assist at the marriage of his
daughter. The fêtes were as usual to extend over three days, and we
were to be his guests for that period.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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