Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
More tumble-down places it would be difficult to find. A man had
need to be a fatalist to live in a house of which all the four walls
lean at different angles. A fire, instead of a misfortune, must be a
real blessing, were it only to bring some air into the dirty, narrow,
ill-savoured streets.
The dirt, the narrowness, and the wretchedly bad pavement, combined
with another trouble, the multitude of dogs lying about, make walking,
pain and grief to the newly-arrived foreigner.
Besides these disagreeables, there is the danger of being crushed
flat against a wall by human beasts of burden called "hamals" or
porters. It is really frightful to see men so laden.
As they come staggering along, bent double beneath their loads, at
every few steps they utter a loud cry, to warn passers-by to get out
of their way. It is, however, by no means an easy matter to avoid
them. The streets are so narrow and tortuous that, after jumping
hastily aside to escape one monstrous package coming up the road, the
unhappy stranger is nearly knocked over by another huge load coming
down. Dogs' tails, too, are always lying where dogs' tails should not
be; and in the agitation and anxiety caused by incessantly darting
from side to side of the street to avoid the groaning "hamals," it
is exceedingly difficult to avoid treading occasionally on one of
these inconvenient tails, and then the whole quarter resounds with
hideous howlings.
The bazaars have been so well and so fully described that it is
needless to say much about them. Our first sensation on seeing them
was, perhaps, that of a little disappointment; but after a time we
better appreciated the picturesque beauty and richness of colouring
that the long dark lanes of little shops presented.
As a rule, few pretty things, excepting shoes and slippers, are exposed
on the stalls. Rugs, carpets, shawls, and jewels are generally kept
behind the shops in cupboards and warehouses.
Turquoises were very abundant and low in price, but all we saw were
of inferior quality, and the large stones had some flaw. Pretty
melon-shaped caskets are made in silver to hold cakes, and
the silver rose-water bottles are charming both in design and
workmanship. Foreigners are speedily attracted to the drug bazaar
by the odd mixture of pungent, pleasant, and disagreeable odours
that proceed from it. Here the scene is like a living picture of
the "Arabian Nights' Tales." Like Amine in the story of "The Three
Calenders," many a veiled figure attended by her black slave may
be seen making her purchases of drugs and spices of the venerable
old doctors, who, with spectacles on nose, and huge musty folios at
their side, look the very personification of wisdom, equally able to
administer medicines and to draw the horoscopes of their patients.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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