Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
Can anything be more beautiful on a sunny evening than to watch the
sea steal quietly up the glittering beach?--to see wave after wave
gracefully bend its snow-capped head, and then, falling over, leave
a line of shining water all along the shore? And riding down upon
the cool, wet sand, how grateful to the tired horses is the tender
lapping of the soft, soothing water, as the little waves curl round
their heated feet! Ah! why will happy hours pass so soon away?--why
does a pang ever mingle with the thought of a joy that is past?
Beyuk'dere is so pretty, so graceful, and so unreal-looking, especially
as we saw it for the first time, on a bright moonlight night, that
it seemed like a dream or a scene in a play. And yet the houses are
very real, and some of them very handsome; for example, the Russian
Embassy, where a clever and charming host, excellent dinners, and
most agreeable evenings were very delightful realities.
Still, most of the smaller houses look as if they were cut out
of cardboard. They have also an unusual number of windows, which,
when lighted up at night (and the shutters are seldom closed, on
account of the heat), give many of the streets the appearance of
the side-scenes at the opera. So strong is the illusion, that it is
difficult to cease expecting that the beautiful heroine in muslin
apron, with little pockets, will presently look out of the latticed
window, or that the irascible father, in brown coat and large buttons,
will issue forth from that most fragile and operatic-looking door.
When we had been a few weeks at Constantinople, and had visited
some half-dozen harems, we began to think we knew something about
Turkish life, and it was not until we had been there some months, and
become acquainted with the families of most of the principal pashas,
ministers, &c., that we discovered how little we really knew about it.
But although we might change our opinions respecting many domestic
customs and manners, time and more intimate knowledge of their
character only increased our liking and admiration for the Turks,
both men and women.
Benevolence and kindness are the principal characteristics of both
sexes. During the whole period of our stay in Turkey we never saw
even a child ill-treat a hapless animal.
Travellers, especially women, are seldom sufficiently conversant with
the laws of a country to be able to expatiate with much accuracy on
such matters. Turkish laws are said to be bad; perhaps they are so,
but certainly there are few cities in Europe where the streets can be
so safely traversed, both by night and day, as those of Constantinople.
Turkish manners, also, are peculiarly agreeable. Turks are not ashamed
to show that they wish to please--that they wish to be courteous;
happily they have not yet adopted that brusquerie of manner that is
becoming so prevalent in the West.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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