Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
We hove-to opposite the mouth of the little river, and sent a boat on
shore to see if we could land, but a Cossack, who had been suspiciously
watching the movements of the yacht all day (and a long hot ride he
must have had), rode rapidly down to the beach, and, pointing his
lance in very warlike fashion at the men, clearly demonstrated that
no landing must be attempted. The boatswain, who spoke Russ, tried
to remonstrate, but an order had lately been sent from Odessa, that
no person should be allowed to land on the coast without a permit,
so, with our destination before us, we had to set sail and depart.
CHAPTER VIII.
SEVASTOPOL.
The next morning, soon after six a.m., we were awakened by the roar
of cannon, and running on deck to ascertain the cause, found that the
yacht was dashing along under a fresh breeze, and rapidly approaching
the entrance to Sevastopol.
Wreaths of smoke were curling round Fort Constantine. We could hear
the hissing of the shot as it fell into the sea, and such warlike
sights and sounds almost made one fancy we had come in time for the
siege; but drawing near, the ruins that lay around, the masts, and
the bits of wreck sticking up in all parts of the harbour (making the
navigation both difficult and dangerous), showed we had but arrived
to see the effects of war.
Even after the lapse of so many years, the scene of desolation was
extraordinary. The forts are not even in ruins. So completely have
they been destroyed, that only masses of broken stones show the sites
where they once stood. On the heights are rows of handsome houses,
or palace-like barracks, still roofless, the walls shattered, and
grass growing thickly between the stones.
The Russians seem to have had as yet no heart or inclination to
attempt seriously the work of restoration. A few houses have been made
habitable, some rebuilt, but whole quarters have been left as they were
at the termination of the siege. In some streets, where apparently a
perfect storm of shot and shell must have descended, the walls of the
houses left are so shattered that it seems almost unsafe to walk about
amongst them--they look as if a gust of wind must bring them down.
The principal church of St. Nicholas has been restored, and houses
have been built for the governor, admiral, and principal officials;
but of the beautiful public buildings and magnificent palaces of which
Sevastopol was once so proud nothing now is left but the scorched,
battered, and defaced skeletons. Some of these poor remains still
retain traces of their former grandeur. Here and there a bit of
tarnished gilding, pieces of what was once rich sculpture, traces of
painting, the remains of stone or marble staircases, still cling to
the crumbling walls. Never again, in all probability, will this once
beautiful city regain the prosperity and position she enjoyed before
the fatal war that brought about her destruction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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