At one time it has been my lot to sleep on couches covered with the
costliest products of the Turkish loom; at another on the bare floor in
a dirty wayside han (camel shed), with camels and oxen as bedfellows,
typhus and small-pox hovering around us. Hospitality has been extended
to me in the underground mud-hut of the fierce, though hospitable,
Kurdish chieftain, armed to the teeth, and next morning I have beheld
the snow-capped summit of Mount Ararat, peering seventeen thousand feet
high through the clouds. I have seen the streets of Constantinople
bathed in the sunshine of summer, and a few hours later besmeared with
blood. The life of the people has presented itself to me in the workshop
of the artisan, with the boatman on the Bosphorus, with the soldier on
the march, and I have felt at home in such company. To all this may be
added many opportunities of entering into the spirit and thought of a
people usually so exclusive that Europeans may live for years in Turkey
without ever having an opportunity of gaining the confidence of a single
Mohammedan in any walk of life.
Our quick-living age is so full of transient impressions that “to-day”
has become the avowed enemy of “yesterday.” Men who but recently played
a prominent part in the world are forgotten; they are obliged to die in
order to reveal the fact that they were until just now still living. If
the material of my book is partly concerned with the things of
yesterday, the incidents and characters which it displays may at least
claim to illustrate a series of abiding human truths.
If it is only now, after a lapse of years, that I have decided to issue
these fragments of my memories, the delay is due to the fact that as
long as the ex-Sultan was on the throne my personal relations with him
and with those around him formed an obstacle which seemed to check my
pen. My narrative might perhaps have been discounted under the suspicion
that it was influenced by undue partiality or tainted by motives of
self-interest. Now that things have so completely changed there can be
but little danger of such an interpretation of my motives.
In describing certain traits of Turkish character I have intentionally
dwelt by preference on those which are brightest, because prejudice and
detraction have created an impression which calls for a correction of
values. My book, therefore, does not lay claim to judicial impartiality.
My aim has been to show by a recital of actual experiences that the
Mohammedan Turk, whose religion is that of sixty millions of British
subjects, is far better than his repute. I have written in frank
sympathy with his sterling human qualities, and with a keen sense of the
injustice he has long suffered from Christian opinion in Europe.
The Governor of Constantinople one day in 1896 said to me: “England was
for us once a garden full of roses, a subject of pleasant thought,
sight, and memory. Now, alas! a serpent has entered and brought discord
between us.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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