The Jewish element of Salonica accounts for nearly half the total
population, and affords interest to the student of race and character.
These Hebrews are in strong contrast with their co-religionists
elsewhere, especially in Russia; not only as regards status, but also in
appearance. They are fine, strong, handsome men and women. Jews are met
with in almost every sphere of life—more particularly among the artisans
and the working classes; nearly all the Salonica boatmen are Jews. Some
of the Salonica Jews rise to high positions in different branches of the
Turkish Administration and invariably give satisfaction. They are “très
bien vus par les Turcs,” as a high Turkish official told me; for the
Turks, in spite of their supposed fanaticism, have always treated the
Jews with kindness, and this at a period when Christian Spain burned
them at the stake. I was told that the Jews of Salonica had only
recently celebrated the four-hundredth anniversary of their arrival in
Turkey from Spain, from which country they were banished in 1490. On
this occasion they had sent an address to the Sultan expressing their
grateful attachment to Turkey and her Sovereign. Prayers were offered up
in every synagogue of the Turkish Empire, and £T50,000 was collected for
benevolent purposes under the auspices of a Committee presided over by
the Grand Rabbi.
It was at Salonica that I first came into contact with that survival of
the fierce spirit of proselytism of former ages, the Anglo-Saxon
missionary element. Never do I remember to have met such implacable
hatred for the Mohammedans as that which seemed to animate the wife of
the Anglo-Saxon missionary, bent on converting them, together with the
Jews, to the religion of Love. She set me thinking whether she and her
husband might not have been more profitably engaged in the slums of the
great cities at home than among the industrious and sober population of
Salonica. An honest, hard-working Christian missionary who is
kind-hearted and humane in a Mohammedan sense may still do good work in
that part of the world, let alone in Asiatic Turkey, as I subsequently
convinced myself, particularly in the application of hygiene, since this
and medical science particularly are lamentably backward. But only harm
can come from the spirit of hatred which I now saw manifested for the
first time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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