We encountered very rough weather in the Black Sea, which interfered
with our enjoyment of the fine scenery on the shore of Asia with its
forest-clad hills, some of them already covered with snow. This journey
in the company of staunch Moslems who would spread their little rugs on
the deck at sunrise and sunset, and pray silently with their faces
turned towards Mecca, was a new sensation to Dr. Hepworth and myself. An
awkward incident took place one day during the voyage. The cooking on
board as well as the bill of fare was “Frank” (_i.e._ European), and on
one occasion roast pork formed an item of the menu. So cunningly was it
prepared that none of us was able to detect it except Dr. Hepworth,
whose partiality for pork was so strong that his first request on
entering a restaurant in Paris, Vienna, or Constantinople was for a pork
chop, and when he had made it disappear, for another pork chop. In the
ecstasy of a delighted palate he proclaimed aloud that we were partaking
of his favourite dish, “roast pork”! Never shall I forget the dismay
that spread over the faces of the Turks present when this disclosure was
made. In order to save the situation I tried to make out that Dr.
Hepworth was mistaken, but finally we all lapsed into silence as the
best way out of the difficulty, since the defilement was beyond
question.
The weather continued so rough that we were a long time in doubt whether
we should be able to stop on our way, as nowhere along the coast was
there a sheltered harbour. Only with great difficulty did we disembark
for a few hours at Kerasoun and at Samsoun, the seat of large tobacco
factories. At Samsoun we reviewed the school-children and saw for the
first time a primitive type of plough, and carts with solid wooden
wheels drawn by oxen—varying probably little from those in use in the
time of Abraham.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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