We started early next morning, having exchanged saddle-horses for
sledges, and arrived at sunset at our destination, another wretched
“han” at the foot of the renowned Kop Dagh, which we were to cross in
the morning, the pass being 8000 feet above sea-level. The summit is
variously given as between 10,000 and 11,000 feet above sea-level. Owing
to the danger of being delayed by snow-drifts, relays of workmen were
engaged during the night to clear a path for our sleighs through the
snow. It was arranged that we should start before daybreak, between four
and five in the morning. The journey turned out to be a somewhat
exciting affair. We started by the dim light of lanterns, first crossing
a frozen stream. Our horses, at times up to their bodies in snow, had
the greatest difficulty; at others our sleighs were repeatedly on the
point of turning over and landing us in the unknown. Luckily, we were
not troubled with the boisterous wind we had feared we might encounter
at the summit; and after several hours of laborious ascent we crossed
the pass in all safety, if not in comfort, owing to the bitter cold of
that region. In the course of the day we met a solitary horseman on his
way to the pass. He was a Canadian missionary, with whom we exchanged
greetings.
Travellers unite in describing the scenery in this part of the Armenian
Highlands as of surpassing beauty. In the winter we saw nothing of the
wonderful effects of atmosphere and colour which form such a striking
feature of the country, as the whole landscape up to the horizon was one
mass of snow-covered mountains, somewhat resembling in character and
outline the broad convex cupolas of a Turkish mosque, say the Aja Sophia
of Constantinople.
As the sun breaks in the early morning on the Kop Dagh, a vision
presents itself to the eye as of the bursting forth of the light of
heaven. It reminded me of some of the most ambitious efforts of Gustave
Doré in his illustrations of the Bible.
Look, how the floor of heaven
Is thick inlaid with patines of bright gold;
There’s not the smallest orb which thou behold’st,
But in his motion like an angel sings,
Still quiring to the young-eyed cherubims:
Such harmony is in immortal souls;
But, whilst this muddy vesture of decay
Doth grossly close it in, we cannot hear it.
_Merchant of Venice_, v.
Arrived at the summit of the pass, the endless panorama of a
snow-covered, undulating tableland at our feet is as that of a mythical
world, majestic, almost terrible in the total absence of all human
habitations as far as the eye could reach towards the horizon—weird in
its vast expanse, all covered with snow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account