Seen on a summer morning from a window on the upper floor of the Pera
Palace Hotel, the city presents a dazzling picture of kaleidoscopic
beauty. We are several hundred feet above the level of the sea. It is
early morn, and a thick grey fog conceals the waters of the Golden Horn
as well as the land. Gradually, as if awakening from a dream, the sharp
angles of prominent buildings, the tips of tall minarets, the curved
outlines of stately mosques, emerge through the mist between clusters of
dark cypresses, dotted in stray patches away to the horizon. The rays of
the rising sun strike a few windows here and there. These glisten with a
peculiar iridescence, as if lighted by electricity—peeping through the
impenetrable haze still dimming the ground. Something ghost-like
pervades the scene. Fancy conjures up the vain anger of Polyphemus, the
deriding jeers of Ulysses.
Rooks caw overhead as they circle through the air. Chanticleer crows on
a patch of green meadow-land. Dogs bark with unwonted anger as three
bears, led by their keepers, thread their way through the crowd—well
accustomed to such sights. Resounding above all, the trumpet call from
the Cavalry Barracks vibrates, mingling with the shouts of hawkers in
the street. Fog-horns and the siren’s moan from ships at anchor swell
the chorus, and between whiles the tinkling of bells of passing mules
and horses is distinctly heard. Droves of black sheep, followed by
Thracian shepherds in picturesque garb, and numbers of horses of
Anatolian breed, ridden by barefooted boys, pass by. Amid this
pandemonium, bricklayers are at work on the roof of a seven-storied
building, run up in such primitive fashion that you wonder the whole
structure does not collapse and bury them among its wreckage. Yet
cobblers and tailors are unconcernedly plying their craft in the
basement, completing a picture which, if witnessed on the stage or
described in a story-book, would strike us as a fanciful realization of
a mythical world.
But lo! the sun! Mosques, minarets, and cypresses float out of the grey
mist as it lifts slowly off land and water. Turkish ironclads become
substantial things as they lie at anchor in the Golden Horn alongside
the battered old wooden hulks of Navarino’s bloody memory. At first the
iron prows only are visible, tipped with light. But as the sun grows
more powerful and plays on the water, streaks of silver quiver
serpent-like—a veritable Greek fire—round the hulls, until finally the
ironclads themselves appear majestically before the vision like
antediluvian monsters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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