Tuscan folk-lore and sketches, together with some other papersAnderton, Isabella Mary
General
Tuscan folk-lore and sketches, together with some other papers
Anderton, Isabella Mary
Folklore -- Italy; Italian literature -- Translations into English
At some distance from the church the granite rocks have piled
themselves into a peak that looks straight over the underlying plain
to the sea beyond. On this peak stands the tower. “The solidity of
its walls,” writes that most conscientious, but not very critical
historian, Giuseppe Ninci,[12] “the smallness of its rooms, the great
difficulty of access, show it to have been one of those terrible
prisons in which pined for long years those unfortunates who, exiled
from their native land, were sent off to the islands.” If prisoners
were put there, it must have been to starve, and for that they might
surely have been shut up in some place which would cost less to build.
There is but one side on which it can be approached, and even there
a man must twice grasp the edge of the rock above his head and draw
himself up by sheer force of biceps before he reaches the base of the
tower. Once there he discovers that he must repeat the operation, for
there is no door, only a window above his head, which he can reach by
stretching up his arms. The tower consists of two low rooms one above
the other, with walls a metre thick. Was it really a prison, or was it
not rather a watch-tower, or a tower of refuge? Otherwise what should
it be doing there all alone on its granite base? Was there once a Roman
or an Etruscan city round that large church or temple? Yet, the huge
granite blocks look as though man had never attempted to oust them for
his advantage. Wanted, an archæologist’s report before these writings
of past history become still further obliterated.
St. Piero di Campo is well worth lingering in for a while on one’s
return from San Giovanni. It was always a favourite landing-place for
hostile ships, the plain below being fertile, and the gulf sheltered.
The castle, therefore, contained everything that could be wanted in
case of siege: a church, and a graveyard in addition to the usual
means of defence. It is a square, massive building, with but one small
entrance. The church is extremely ancient. The roof, low and vaulted,
is supported on two short, thick granite columns, one having a roughly
carved capital which is well worth study, the other none at all. The
walls have been barbarously whitewashed, but in two or three places
where the whitewash has been chipped off, there stand revealed the
figures of early 15th-century frescoes executed by a Tuscan artist.
One or two figures have been laid bare as a matter of curiosity, and
it appears probable that the whole church is frescoed in the same way.
If so, and the Campesi would undo their barbarism, it would be worth a
pilgrimage to see.
II.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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