Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. ShermanByers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
History
Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman
Byers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
Europe -- Description and travel
The monks met us at the hospice entrance, and gave us places to rest
for an hour. To me, who was utterly exhausted and used up, they gave
drams of good, hot whisky.
An hour later they took us down to the Refectory, where we had a
substantial supper of hot soup, bread, potatoes, omelets, prunes, and
also wine. A fire blazed in the immense fireplace, for it is chilly and
cold up here even in August. A wind was now blowing outside, and it was
very dark. We were glad to sit around the fire with some of the monks
and tell them strange things about the country we came from. One of
them spoke English, a few of them German.
These zealous monks live up in this inhospitable pass solely to rescue
and aid lost travelers. Thousands of poor men, seeking labor in better
climates, walk over this pass to Italy every season. Many lose their
way and are hunted up by the noble St. Bernard dogs; many freeze to
death, and the monks have piled their unidentified bodies up out there
in the stone dead-house. There is not enough soil on this rocky height
for a grave. And the air is so rarefied that graves are not needed;
the dead simply dry away at last, or, in their half-frozen condition,
remain like unembalmed mummies. The high air is ruinous to health, and
the monks after a few short years go down into the Rhone valley to die,
while others for another little space take their places.
The next morning I climbed through an open window into the dead-house.
The dead found on the pass during twenty years either lay on the floor
or stood against the wall. It was a hideous spectacle, and yet numerous
of the bodies were lifelike in every feature. They were placed in there
just as they were found. All have the clothes on they wore when they
were lost. Many are in the same attitude of despair and agony they had
when the storm closed them in its icy embrace. I saw a man with form
bent and arms extended as if groping to find his way. A dead woman sat
in the corner with her frozen child in her arms. She has been there
these dozen years. Some of the faces could yet be recognized had any
friend in the world come to look at them.
After breakfast we had a play with a number of the noble dogs that have
saved human lives on this pass, time and again. They were very large,
mostly tawny colored, extremely intelligent and kind.
The devoted lives of these monks, and these dogs, is something
pathetically noble.
A pretty chapel or church is built on to the hospice, and in there one
sees a fine marble statue of Marshal Saxe, the hero of Marengo, put
there by the order of Napoleon.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account