Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. ShermanByers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
History
Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman
Byers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
Europe -- Description and travel
I recall that on the first day we had dinner spread underneath the
trees, out on the terrace of Bocken. The blue lake lay a thousand feet
below us, the white mountains shone in the distance, behind us were
high hills covered with evergreen forests. About the chateau were
bright meadows and rich vineyards. There is scarcely a scene more
beautiful in this world. Yet, I was surprised how little it affected
him. In the presence of such grandeur, he seemed at that moment
unimpressionable. He was a man of moods. I called his attention to the
glorious view. “Not more beautiful,” he said at last, “than the lakes
near Madison. I think of them when I see this. I like American scenery
better than any of it. It is the real, native thing in our country.
Man has done nothing there. Here, in Europe, so much is artificial.”
Yet there was nothing artificial around him here; unless it were the
much-vaunted, little, red, wooden-looking Swiss strawberries on the
table. He wondered how we could adopt the Swiss way of pouring wine on
them, instead of cream and sugar. The big cake in the center of the
table was decorated with preserved fruits. “How singular that is, isn’t
it?” he said; “real Dutch.” But he liked it for all that. He liked,
too, our simple table, though an American dish or two had been prepared
in his honor; and he had a relish for good wine, but was moderate in
its use. When we had the champagne, I proposed his health. “No,” said
he, gallantly, rising to his feet, “we drink the health of Mrs. Byers.”
“Both together then,” I said.
He was happy when I gave him a cigar. The scene began to have some
interest for him. It was finer than Madison after all. I think the
dinner increased his appreciation. The practical side of what he saw
was always in his mind. He measured the near hills with his eye and
guessed their height. “North must be right over there,” he said,
pointing, though the sun was not shining. The snow mountains were
twenty miles away--not thirty, as we had stated. He was sure he “never
missed on distances.” But he did this time. He climbed up to the
winemill in the barn loft, examined the presses below, took hold of
the queer scythes of the mowers, and undertook to describe an American
mowing machine to a peasant, who did not understand a word of English.
In an hour or so he was acquainted with everything practical about the
place.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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