Twice round the clock; or, The hours of the day and night in LondonSala, George Augustus
General
Twice round the clock; or, The hours of the day and night in London
Sala, George Augustus
London (England) -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Following the kerb-stone myself from the before-mentioned County Fire
Office to St. Martin’s Lane, and passing through Leicester Square—which,
what with the Alhambra “Palace” and its hideous American posters, the
Great Globe, and the monster _cafés chantants_, I begin to be rather
uncertain about recognising—passing, not without some inward trembling,
the stick shop at the corner of the lane, while on either side of the
portal those peculiarly ugly carved clubs—the very Gog and Magog of
walking-stickery—keep watch and ward, I cut dexterously through the
living torrent that is flowing from Charing Cross toward St. Giles’s
(they were villages once, Charynge and Saint Gyles’s—ha! ha!) and
commence the ascent of New Street, a feat well nigh as disagreeable, if
not as perilous, as that of Mont Blanc. I hate this incorrigible little
thoroughfare; this New Street. It is full of bad smells, mangy little
shops, obstructions, and bad characters. There is a yawning gin-palace at
its south-western extremity. The odours of its eating-houses—especially
of a seedy little French _pension bourgeoise_ about half way up—are
displeasing to my nostrils. The cigars vended in New Street are the
worst in London, and the sweetstuff shops are mobbed—yes, mobbed—by
children in torn pinafores who _never_ have any pocket handkerchiefs.
Of late days, photographers have hung out their signs and set up their
lenses in New Street; and if, passing through the street, you escape
being run over by a wagon or upset by an inebriated market-gardener, you
run great risks of being forcibly dragged into the hole tenanted by a
photographic “artist,” and “focussed,” willy nilly. Thoroughfares, almost
inconceivably tortuous, crapulous, and infamous, debouch upon New Street.
There is that Rose Street, or Rose Alley, where, if I be not wrong in my
topography, John Dryden, the poet, was waylaid and cudgelled; and there
is a wretched little haunt called Bedfordbury, a devious, slimy little
reptile of a place, whose tumble-down tenements and reeking courts spume
forth plumps of animated rags, such as can be equalled in no London
thoroughfare save Church Lane, St. Giles’s. I don’t think there are five
windows in Bedfordbury with a whole pain of glass in them. Rags and
filthy _loques_ are hung from poles, like banners from the outward walls.
There is an insolent burgher of Bedfordbury, who says I owe him certain
stivers. Confound the place! its rags, its children, its red herrings,
and tobacco-pipes crossed in the windows, its boulders of whitening, and
its turpentine-infected bundles of firewood!
The pursuit of New Street, thus maledicted, brings me to King Street,
Covent Garden, a broad, fair, well-conducted public way, against which I
have no particular prejudice; for it leads up to Covent Garden Market,
which I love; and it contains within its limits the Garrick Club.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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