Twice round the clock; or, The hours of the day and night in LondonSala, George Augustus
General
Twice round the clock; or, The hours of the day and night in London
Sala, George Augustus
London (England) -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Hyde Park Corner before the battle of Waterloo must have been a strange,
old-fashioned-looking place. No Apsley House: the site was occupied
by the old woman who kept the apple-stall, or the bun-house, or the
curds and whey shop, and who wouldn’t be bought out, save at enormous
prices, by his late Grace, Field-Marshal Arthur Duke of Wellington. No
triumphal arch; and, thank good taste, no equestrian statue of the late
F. M. Arthur Dux, &c., on the summit thereof. No entablatured colonnade,
with nothing to support, towards the Park. No Achilles statue. A mean,
unpicturesque, common-place spot, I take it. What could you expect of
an epoch in which the Life Guards wore cocked hats and pig-tails, the
police-officers red waistcoats and top boots, when the king _de jure_
was mad, and the king _de facto_ wore a wig and padded himself? A bad
time. We have a lady on the throne now who behaves as a sovereign should
behave, and London grows handsomer every day.
I declare that it does; and I don’t care a fig for the cynics—most of
them ignorant cynics, too—who, because they have accomplished a cheap
tour to Paris, or have gone half-way up the Rhine, think themselves
qualified to under-rate and to decry the finest metropolis in the world.
I grant the smoke—in the city—and I confess that the Thames is anything
but odoriferous in sultry weather, and is neither so blue nor so clear as
the Neva; but I say that London has dozens and scores of splendid streets
and mansions, such as I defy Paris, Vienna, Berlin, or St. Petersburg—I
know their architectural glories by heart—to produce. I say that Pall
Mall beats the Grand Canal at Venice; that Regent Street, with a little
more altitude in its buildings, would put the Boulevard des Italiens to
shame; and that Cannon Street makes the Nevskoi Perspective hide its
diminished head. Some of these days, when I can get that balance at the
banker’s I have been waiting for so long, I shall sit down and indite a
book entitled, “A Defence of London, Architecturally Considered,” the
which I shall publish at my own expense, as I am certain no publisher
would purchase the copyright.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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