Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
The ten yards of brocade for this beautiful suit cost £;14. The
Rhingrave breeches were trimmed with thirty-six yards of figured
scarlet ribbon and thirty-six yards of plain satin ribbon and
thirty-six of scarlet taffeta ribbon; this made one hundred and eight
yards of ribbon—a great amount—an unusable amount. I fear the tailor
was not honest. There were also as trimmings twenty-two yards of
scarlet and silver vellum lace for guards; six dozen scarlet and silver
vellum buttons, smaller breast buttons, narrow laces for the waistcoat,
and silver twist for buttonholes. The suit was lined with lutestring.
There was a black beaver hat with scarlet and silver edging, and lace
embroidered scarlet stockings, a rich belt and lace garters, and point
lace ruffles for the neck, sleeves, and knees. This suit had an
interlining of scarlet camlet; and lutestring drawers seamed with
scarlet and silver lace. The total bill of £;59 would be represented
to-day by $1400,—a goodly sum,—but it was a goodly suit. There is a
portrait of the Duchess of Richmond in a similar suit, now at
Buckingham Palace. Portraits of the Duke of Bedford, and of George I,
painted by Kneller, are almost equally beribboned. The one of the king
is given facing this page to show his ribbons and also the
extraordinary shoes, which were fashionable at this date.
George I. George I.
“Indians gowns,” or banyans, were for a century worn in England and
America, and are of enough importance to receive a separate chapter in
this book. The graceful folds allured all men and all portrait
painters, just as the fashionable new china allured all women. The
banyan was not the only Oriental garment which had become of interest
to Englishmen. John Evelyn described in his _Tyrannus or the Mode_ the
“comeliness and usefulnesse” of all Persian clothing; and he noted with
justifiable gratification that the new attire which had recently been
adopted by King Charles II was “a comely dress after ye Persian mode.”
He says modestly, “I do not impute to this my discourse the change
which soone happened; but it was an identity I could not but take
notice of.”
Rugge in his _Diurnal_ describes the novel dress which was assumed by
King Charles and the whole court, due notice of a subject of so much
importance having been given to the council the previous month; and
notice of the king’s determination “never to change it,” which he kept
like many another of his promises and resolutions.
“It is a close coat of cloth pinkt with a white taffety under the
cutts. This in length reached the calf of the leg; and upon that a
sercoat cutt at the breast, which hung loose and shorter than the vest
six inches. The breeches the Spanish cutt; and buskins some of cloth,
some of leather but of the same colour as the vest or garment; of never
the like garment since William the Conqueror.”
Three Cassock Sleeves and a Buff-coat Sleeve. Three Cassock Sleeves and
a Buff-coat Sleeve.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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