Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
These beribboned garments were a French mode. The breeches were the
“rhingraves” of the French court, which were breeches made wholly of
loops of ribbons—like two ribboned petticoats. They caught the eye of
seafaring men; we know that Jack ashore loves finery. We are told of
sea-captains wearing beribboned breeches as they came into quiet little
American ports, and of one English gallant landing from a ship in sober
Boston, wearing breeches made wholly from waist to knee of overlapping
loops of gay varicolored ribbon. It is recorded that “the boys did
wonder and call out thereat,” and they “were chided therefor.” It is
easy to picture the scene: the staring boys, born in Boston, of Puritan
parents, of dignified dress, and more familiar with fringes on the
garments of savage Indians than on the breeches of English gentlemen;
we can see the soberly reproving minister or schoolmaster looking with
equal disapproval on the foppish visitor and the mannerless boys; and
the gayly dressed ship’s captain, armed with self-satisfaction and
masculine vanity, swaggering along the narrow streets of the little
town. It mattered not what he wore or what he did, a seafaring man was
welcome. I wonder what the governor thought of those beribboned
breeches! Perhaps he ordered a pair from London for himself,—of
sad-colored ribbons,—offering the color as a compromise for the
over-gayety of the ribbons. Randle Holme gave in 1658 three
descriptions of the first petticoat-breeches, with drawings of each.
One had the lining lower than the breeches, and tied in about the
knees; ribbons extended halfway up the breeches, and ribbons hung out
from the doublet all about the waistband. The second had a single row
of pointed ribbons hanging all around the lower edge of the breeches;
these were worn with stirrup-hose two yards wide at the top, tied by
points and eyelet-holes to the breeches. The third had stirrup-hose
tied to the breeches, and another pair of hose over them turned down at
the calf of the leg, and the ribbons edged the stirrup-hose. His
drawings of them are foolish things—not even pretty. He says ribbons
were worn first at the knees, then at the waist at the doublet edge,
then around the neck, then on the wrists and sleeves. These
knee-ribbons formed what Dryden called in 1674 “a dangling
knee-fringe.” It is difficult for me to think of Dryden living at that
period of history. He seems to me infinitely modern in comparison with
it. Evelyn describes the wearer of such a suit as “a fine silken
thing”; and tells that the ribbons were of “well-chosen colours of red,
orange, and blew, of well-gummed satin, which augured a happy fancy.”
In 1672 a suit of men’s clothes was made for the beautiful Duchess of
Portsmouth to wear to a masquerade; this was with “Rhingrave breeches
and cannons.” The suit was of dove-colored silk brocade trimmed with
scarlet and silver lace and ribbons.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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