Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
A little negative proof may be given as to one word and article. The
gorget is said to be an adaptation of the wimple. Our writers of
historical tales are very fond of attiring their heroines in wimples
and kirtles. Both have a picturesque, an antique, sound—the wimple is
Biblical and Shakesperian, and therefore ever satisfying to the ear,
and to the sight in manuscript. But I have never seen the word wimple
in an inventory, list, invoice, letter, or book of colonial times, and
but once the word kirtle. Likewise are these modern authors a bit vague
as to the manner of garment a wimple is. One fair maid is described as
having her fair form wrapped in a warm wimple. She might as well be
described as wrapped in a warm cravat. For a wimple was simply a small
kerchief or covering for the neck, worn in the thirteenth and
fourteenth centuries.
Another quaint term, already obsolete when the _Mayflower_ sailed, was
partlet. A partlet was an inner kerchief, worn with an open-necked
bodice or doublet. Its trim plaited edge or ruffle seems to have given
rise to the popular name, “Dame Partlet,” for a hen. It appeared in the
reign of Henry VIII; the courtiers imitating the king threw open their
garments at the throat, and further opened them with slashes; hence the
use of the partlet, which was a trim form of underhabit or gorget, worn
well up to the throat. An old dictionary explains that the partlet can
be “set on or taken off by itself without taking off the bodice, as can
be pickadillies now-a-days, or men’s bands.” It adds that women’s
neckerchiefs have been called partlets.
In October, 1662, Samuel Pepys wrote in his _Diary_, “Made myself fine
with Captain Ferrers lace band; being loathe to wear my own new
scallop; it is so fine.” This is one of his several references to this
new fashion of band which both he and his wife adopted. He paid £;3 for
his scallop, and 45s. for one for his wife. He was so satisfied with
his elegance in this new scallop, that like many another lover of dress
he determined his chief extravagance should be for lace. The fashion of
scallop-wearing came to America. For several years the word was used in
inventories, then it became as obsolete as a caul, a shadow, a cornet.
The word “cravat” is not very ancient. Its derivation is said to be
from the Cravates or Croats in the French military service, who adopted
such neckwear in 1636. An early use of the word is by Blount in 1656,
who called a cravat “a new fashioned Gorget which Women wear.”
The cravat is a distinct companion of the wig, and was worn whenever
and wherever wigs were donned.
Evelyn gave the year 1666 as the one when vest, cravat, garters, and
buckles came to be the fashion. We could add likewise wigs. Of course
all these had been known before that year, but had not been general
wear.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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