Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
An early example of a cravat is shown in the portrait of old William
Stoughton in my later chapter on Cloaks. His cravat is a distinctly new
mode of neck-dressing, but is found on all American portraits shortly
after that date. One is shown with great exactness in the portrait
here, which is asserted to be that of “the handsomest man in the
Plantations,” William Coddington, Governor of Rhode Island and
Providence Plantations.
Governor Coddington. Governor Coddington.
He was a precise man, and wearisome in his precision—a bore, even, I
fear. His beauty went for little in his relation of man to man, and,
above all, of colonist to colonist; and poor Governor Winthrop must
have been sorely tormented with his frequent letters, which might have
been written from Mars for all the signs they bore of news of things of
this earth. His dress is very neat and rich—a characteristic dress, I
think. It has slightly wrought buttonholes, plain sleeve ruffles and
gloves. His full curled peruke has a mass of long curls hanging in
front of the right shoulder, while the curls on the left side are six
or eight inches shorter. This was the most elegant London fashion, and
extreme fashion too. His neck-scarf or cravat was a characteristic one.
It consisted of a long scarf of soft, fine, sheer, white linen over two
yards long, passed twice or thrice close around the throat and simply
lapped under the chin, not knotted. The upper end hung from twelve to
sixteen inches long. The other and longer end was carried down to a low
waistline and tucked in between the buttons of the waistcoat. Often the
free end of this scarf was trimmed with lace or cut-work; indeed, the
whole scarf might be of embroidery or lace, but the simpler lawn or
mull appears to have been in better taste. This tie is seen in this
portrait of Thomas Fayerweather, by Smybert, and in modified forms on
many other pages.
Thomas Fayerweather. Thomas Fayerweather.
We now find constant references to the Steinkirk, a new cravat. As we
see it frequently stated that the Steinkirk was a black tie, I may
state here that all the Steinkirks I have seen have been white. I know
no portraits with black neck-cloths. I find no allusions in old-time
literature or letters to black Steinkirks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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