Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
But Indian paths were many, and the water-ways were unpatrolled, and
kitchen doors could be slyly opened in the dusk; so the government, in
spite of laws and shelter-houses, did not get all the beaver skins. Too
many were eager for the lucrative and irregular trade; agricultural
pursuits were alarmingly neglected; other communities became rivals,
and the beavers soon were exterminated from the valley of the Hudson,
and by 1660 the Fort Orange trade was sadly diminished. The governor of
Canada had an itching palm, and lured the Indians—and beaver skins—to
Montreal. Thus “impaired by French wiles,” scarce nine thousand
peltries came in 1687 to Fort Orange. With a few fluttering rallies
until Revolutionary times the fur trade of Albany became extinct; it
passed from both Dutch and French, and was dominated by the Hudson Bay
Fur Company.
So clear a description of the fur of the beaver and the use of the pelt
was given by Adriaen van der Donck, who lived at Fort Orange from the
year 1641 to 1646, and traded for years with the Indians, that it is
well to give his exact words:—
“The beaver’s skin is rough but thickly set with fine fur of an
ash-gray color inclining to blue. The outward points also incline to a
russet or brown color. From the fur of the beaver the best hats are
made that are worn. They are called beavers or castoreums from the
material of which they are made, and they are known by this name over
all Europe. Outside of the coat of fur many shining hairs appear called
wind-hairs, which are more properly winter-hairs, for they fall out in
summer and appear again in winter. The outer coat is of a
chestnut-brown color, the browner the color the better is the fur.
Sometimes it will be a little reddish.
“When hats are made of the fur, the rough hairs are pulled out for they
are useless. The skins are usually first sent to Russia, where they are
highly valued for their outside shining hair, and on this their
greatest recommendation depends with the Russians. The skins are used
there for mantle-linings and are also cut into strips for borders, as
we cut rabbit-skins. Therefore we call the same peltries. Whoever has
there the most and costliest fur-trimmings is deemed a person of very
high rank, as with us the finest stuffs and gold and silver
embroideries are regarded as the appendages of the great. After the
hairs have fallen out, or are worn, and the peltries become old and
dirty and apparently useless, we get the article back, and convert the
fur into hats, before which it cannot be well used for this purpose,
for unless the beaver has been worn, and is greasy and dirty, it will
not felt properly, hence these old peltries are the most valuable. The
coats which the Indians make of beaver-skins and which they have worn
for a long time around their bodies until the skins have become foul
with perspiration and grease are afterwards used by the hatters and
make the best hats.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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