Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
One notion about beaver must be told. Its great popularity for many
years arose, it is conjectured, from its original use as a cap for
curative purposes. Such a beaver cap would “unfeignedly” recover to a
man his hearing, and stimulate his memory to a wonder, especially if
the “oil of castor” was rubbed in his hair.
Elihu Yale. Elihu Yale.
The beaver hat was for centuries a choice and costly article of dress;
it went through many bizarre forms. On the head of Henry IV of France
and Navarre, as made known in his portrait, is a hat which effectually
destroys all possibility of dignity. It is a bell-crowned stove-pipe,
of the precise shape worn later by coachmen and by dandies about the
years 1820 to 1830. It is worn very much over one royal ear, like the
hat of a well-set-up, self-important coachman of the palmy days of
English coaching, and gives an air of absurd modernity and cockney
importance to the picture of a king of great dignity. The hat worn by
James I, ere he was King of England, is shown here. It is funnier than
any seen for years in a comic opera. The hat worn by Francis Bacon is a
plain felt, greatly in contrast with his rich laced triple ruff and
cuffs and embroidered garments. That of Thomas Cecil here varies
slightly.
Two very singular shapings of the plain hat may be seen, one here on
the head of Fulke Greville, where the round-topped, high crown is most
disproportionate to the narrow brim. The second, here, shows an extreme
sugar-loaf, almost a pointed crown.
A good hat was very expensive, and important enough to be left among
bequests in a will. They were borrowed and hired for many years, and
even down to the time of Queen Anne we find the rent of a _subscription
hat_ to be £;2 6s. per annum! The hiring out of a hat does not seem
strange when hiring out clothes was a regular business with tailors.
The wife of a person of low estate hired a gown of Queen Elizabeth’s to
be married in. Tailor Thomas Gylles complained of the Yeoman of the
queen’s wardrobe for suffering this. He writes, “The copper cloth of
gold gowns which were made last, and another, were sent into the
country for the marriage of Lord Montague.” The bequest of half-worn
garments was highly regarded. On the very day of Darnley’s funeral,
Mary Queen of Scots gave his clothes to Bothwell, who sent them to his
tailor to be refitted. The tailor, bold with the riot and disorder of
the time, returned them with the impudent message that “the duds of
dead men were given to the hangman.” The duds of men who were hanged
were given to the hangman almost as long as hangings took place. A poor
New England girl, hanged for the murder of her child, went to the
scaffold in her meanest attire, and taunted the executioner that he
would get but a poor suit of clothes from her. The last woman hanged in
Massachusetts wore a white satin gown, which I expect the sheriff’s
daughter much revelled in the following winter at dancing-parties.
Thomas Cecil. Thomas Cecil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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