Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Old Philip Stubbes has given us a wonderful description of English
head-gear:—
“HATS OF SUNDRIE FATIONS”
“Sometymes they vse them sharpe on the Croune, pearking vp like the
Spire, or Shaft of a Steeple, standyng a quarter of a yarde aboue the
Croune of their heades, somemore, some lesse, as please the phantasies
of their inconstant mindes. Othersome be flat and broad on the Crowne,
like the battlemetes of a house. An other sorte haue rounde Crownes,
sometymes with one kinde of Band, sometymes with another, now black,
now white, now russet, now red, now grene, now yellowe, now this, now
that, never content with one colour or fashion two daies to an ende.
And thus in vanitie they spend the Lorde his treasure, consuming their
golden yeres and siluer daies in wickednesse and sinne. And as the
fashions bee rare and strange, so is the stuffe whereof their hattes be
made divers also; for some are of Silke, some of Veluet, some of
Taffatie, some of Sarcenet, some of Wooll, and, whiche is more curious,
some of a certaine kinde of fine Haire; these they call Bever hattes,
or xx. xxx. or xl. shillinges price, fetched from beyonde the seas,
from whence a greate sorte of other vanities doe come besides. And so
common a thing it is, that euery seruyngman, countrieman, and other,
euen all indefferently, dooe weare of these hattes. For he is of no
account or estimation amongst men if he haue not a Veluet or Taffatie
hatte, and that must be Pincked, and Cunnyngly Carved of the beste
fashion. And good profitable hattes be these, for the longer you weare
them the fewer holes they haue. Besides this, of late there is a new
fashion of wearyng their hattes sprong vp amongst them, which they
father vpon a Frenchman, namely, to weare them with bandes, but how
vnsemely (I will not saie how hassie) a fashion that is let the wise
judge; notwithstanding, howeuer it be, if it please them, it shall not
displease me.
“And another sort (as phantasticall as the rest) are content with no
kinde of hat without a greate Bunche of Feathers of diuers and sondrie
Colours, peakyng on top of their heades, not vnlike (I dare not saie)
Cockescombes, but as sternes of pride, and ensignes of vanity. And yet,
notwithstanding these Flutterying Sailes, and Feathered Flagges of
defiaunce of Vertue (for so they be) are so advanced that euery child
hath them in his Hat or Cap; many get good liuing by dying and selling
of them, and not a few proue the selues more than Fooles in wearyng of
them.”
Notwithstanding this list of Stubbes, it is very curious to note that
in general the shape of the real beaver hat remained the same as long
as it was worn uncocked.
Cornelius Steinwyck. Cornelius Steinwyck.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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