Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Another much-used name and cloaklike garment was the roquelaure. A very
good contemporary definition may be copied from _A Treatise on the
Modes_, 1715; it says it is “a short abridgement or compendium of a
coat which is dedicated to the Duke of Roquelaure.” It was simply a
shorter cloak than had been worn, and it was hoodless; for the great
curled wigs with heavy locks well over the shoulders made hoods
superfluous; and even impossible, for men’s wear. It was very speedily
taken into favor by women; and soon the advertisements of lost articles
show that it was worn by women universally as by men. In the _Boston
News Letter_, in 1730, a citizen advertises that he has lost his “Blue
Cloak or Roculo with brass buttons.” This was the first of an ingenious
series of misspellings which produced at times a word almost unrelated
to the original French word. Rocklow, rockolet, roquelo, rochelo,
roquello, and even rotkello have I found. Ashton says that scarlet
cloth was the favorite fabric for roquelaures in England; and he deems
the scarlet roclows and rocliers with gold loops and buttons “exceeding
magnifical.” I note in the American advertisements that the lost
roquelaures are of very bright colors; some were of silk, some of
camlet; generally they are simply ‘cloth.’ Many of the American
roquelaures had double capes. I think those handsome, gay cloaks must
have given a very bright, cheerful aspect to the town streets of the
middle of the eighteenth century.
Sir William Pepperell, who was ever a little shaky in his spelling, but
possibly no more so than his neighbors, sent in 1737 from Piscataqua to
one Hooper in England for “A Handsom Rockolet for my daughter of about
15 yrs. old, or what is ye Most Newest Fashion for one of her age to
ware at meeting in ye Winter Season.”
The capuchin was a hooded cloak named from the hooded garment worn by
the Capuchin monks. The date 1752 given by Fairholt as an early date of
its wear is far wrong. Fielding used the word in _Tom Jones_ in 1749;
other English publications, in 1709; and I find it in the _Letters of
Madame de Sévigné_ as early as 1686. The cardinal, worn at the same
date, was originally of scarlet cloth, and I find was generally of some
wool stuff. At one time I felt sure that cardinal was always the name
for the woollen cloak, and capuchin of the silken one; but now I am a
bit uncertain whether this is a rule. Judging from references in
literature and advertisements, the capuchin was a richer garment than
the cardinal. Capuchins were frequently trimmed liberally with lace,
ribbons, and robings; were made of silk with gauze ruffles, or of
figured velvet. One is here shown which is taken from one of Hogarth’s
prints.
A Capuchin. From Hogarth. A Capuchin. From Hogarth.
This notice is from the _Boston Evening Post_ of January 13, 1772:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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