Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
“A woman’s long scarlet cloak, almost new with a double cape,” had been
one of the articles feloniously taken from the house of Benjamin
Franklin, printer, in Philadelphia, in 1750. Debby Franklin’s dress, if
we can judge from what was stolen, was a gay revel of color. Among the
articles was one gown having a pattern of “large red roses and other
large yellow flowers with blue in some of the flowers with many green
leaves.”
In the _Life of Jonathan Trumbull_ we read that when a collection was
taken in the Lebanon church for the benefit of the soldiers of the
Continental army, when money, jewels, clothing, and food were gathered
in a great heap near the pulpit, Madam Faith Trumbull rose up, threw
from her shoulders her splendid scarlet cloth cloak, a gift from Count
Rochambeau, advanced to the altar and laid the cloak with other
offerings of patriotism and generosity. It was used, we are told, to
trim the uniforms of the Continental officers and soldiers.
Woman’s Cloak. From Hogarth. Woman’s Cloak. From Hogarth.
One of the first entries in regard to dress made by Philip Fithian in
1773, when he went to Virginia as a school-teacher, was that “almost
every Lady wears a Red Cloak; and when they ride out they tye a Red
Handkerchief over their Head &; Face; so when I first came to Virginia,
I was distrest whenever I saw a Lady, for I thought she had the
Tooth-Ach!” When the young tutor left his charge a year later, he wrote
a long letter of introduction, instruction, and advice to his
successor; and so much impression had this riding-dress still upon him
that he recounted at length the “Masked Ladies,” as he calls them,
explaining that the whole neck and face was covered, save a narrow slit
for the eyes, as if they had “the Mumps or Tooth-Ach.” It is possible
that the insect torments encountered by the fair riders may have been
the reason for this cloaking and masking. Not only mosquitoes and flies
and fleas were abundant, but Fithian tells of the irritating illness
and high fever of the fairest of his little flock from being bitten
with ticks, “which cover her like a distinct smallpox.”
In seventeenth-century inventories an occasional item is a rocket. I
think no better description of a rocket can be given than that of Celia
Fiennes:—
“You meete all sorts of countrywomen wrapped up in the mantles called
West Country Rockets, a large mantle doubled together, of a sort of
serge, some are linsey-woolsey and a deep fringe or fag at the lower
end; these hang down, some to their feet, some only just below the
waist; in the summer they are all in white garments of this sort, in
the winter they are in red ones.”
This would seem much like a blanket shawl, but the word was also
applied to the scarlet round cloak.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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