Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
The dress of these five children is of the same rich materials that
would be worn by their mothers. The Padishal child wears black velvet
like her mother’s gown; but her frock is brightened with scarlet points
of color. The linings of the velvet hanging sleeves, the ribbon knots
of the white virago-sleeve, the shoe-tip, the curious cap-tassel, are
of bright scarlet. We have noted the dominance of scarlet in old
English costumes. It was evidently the only color favored for children.
The lace cap, the rich lace stomacher, the lace-edged apron, all are of
Flemish lace. Margaret Gibbes wears a frock of similar shape, and
equally rich and dark in color; it is a heavy brocade of blue and red,
with a bit of yellow. Her fine apron, stomacher, and full sleeves are
rich in needlework. Robert Gibbes’s “coat,” as a boy’s dress at that
age then was called, is a striking costume. The inmost sleeves are of
white lawn, over them are sleeves made of strips of galloon of a
pattern in yellow, white, scarlet, and black, with a rolled cuff of red
velvet. There is a similar roll around the hem of the coat. Still
further sleeves are hanging sleeves of velvet trimmed with the galloon.
It will be noted that his hanging sleeve is cut square and trimmed
squarely across the end. It is similar to the sleeves worn at the same
time by citizens of London in their formal “liveryman’s” dress, which
had bands like pockets, that sometimes really were pockets.
His plain, white, hemstitched band would indicate that he was a boy,
did not the swing of his petticoats plainly serve to show it, as do
also his brothers’ “coats.” That child knew well what it was to tread
and trip on those hated petticoats as he went upstairs. I know how he
begged for breeches. The apron of John Quincy varies slightly in shape
from that of the other boy, but the general dress is like, save his
pretty, gay, scarlet hood, worn over a white lace cap. One unique
detail of these Gibbes portraits, and the Quincy portrait, is the
shoes. In all four, the shoes are of buff leather, with absolutely
square toes, with a thick, scarlet sole to which the buff-leather upper
seems tacked with a row either of long, thick, white stitches or of
heavy metal-headed nails; these white dots are very ornamental. One
pair of the shoes has great scarlet roses on the instep. The square toe
was distinctly a Cavalier fashion. It is in Miss Campion’s portrait,
facing this page, and in the print of the Prince of Orange here, and is
found in many portraits of the day. But these American shoes are in the
minor details entirely unlike any English shoes I have seen in any
collection elsewhere, and are most interesting. They were doubtless
English in make.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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