Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
The portrait of John Quincy resembles much in its dress that of Oliver
Cromwell when two years old, the picture now at Chequers Court.
Cromwell’s linen collar is rounded, and a curious ornament is worn in
front, as a little girl would wear a locket. The whole throat and a
little of the upper neck is bare. Dark hair, slightly curled, comes out
from the close cap in front of the ears. This picture of Cromwell
distinctly resembles his mother’s portrait.
Miss Campion, 1667. Miss Campion, 1667.
The quaint tassel or rosette or feather on the cap of the Padishal
child was a fashion of the day. It is seen in many Dutch portraits of
children. In a curious old satirical print of Oliver Cromwell preaching
are the figures of two little children drawn standing by their mother’s
side. One child’s back is turned for our sight, and shows us what might
well be the back of the gown of the Padishal child. The cap has the
same ornament on the crown, and the hanging sleeves—of similar
form—have, at intervals of a few inches apart from shoulder to heel, an
outside embellishment of knots of ribbon. There is also a band or strip
of embroidery or passementerie up the back of the gown from skirt-hem
to lace collar, with a row of buttons on the strip. This proves that
the dress was fastened in the back, as the stiff, unbroken, white
stomacher also indicates. The other child is evidently a boy. His gown
is long and fur-edged. His cap is round like a Scotch bonnet, and has
also a tuft or rosette at the crown. On either side hang long strings
or ribbon bands reaching from the cap edge to the knee.
These portraits of these little American children display nothing of
that God-given attribute which we call genius, but they do possess a
certain welcome trait, which is truthfulness; a hard attention to
detail, which confers on them a quality of exactness of likeness of
which we are very sensible. We have for comparison a series of
portraits of the same dates, but of English children, the children of
the royal and court families. I give here a part of the portrait group
of the family of the Duke of Buckingham; namely, the Duchess of
Buckingham and her two children, an infant son and a daughter, Mary.
She was a wonderful child, known in the court as “Pretty Moll,” having
the beauty of her father, the “handsomest-bodied” man in court, his
vivacity, his vigor, and his love of dancing, all of which made him the
prime favorite both of James and his son, Charles.
A letter exists written by the duchess to her husband while he was gone
to Spain with his thirty suits of richly embroidered garments of which
I have written in my first chapter. The duchess writes of “Pretty
Moll,” who was not a year old:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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