Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
In the Essex Institute in Salem, Massachusetts, are the baptismal shirt
and mittens of the Pilgrim father, William Bradford, second governor of
the Plymouth colony, who was born in 1590. They are shown here. All are
of firm, close-woven, homespun linen, but the little mittens have been
worn at the ends by the active friction of baby hands, and are patched
with red and yellow figured “chiney” or calico. A similar colored
material frills the sleeves and neck. This may have been part of their
ornamentation when first made, but it looks extraneous.
The sleeves of this shirt are plaited or goffered in a way that seems
wholly lost; this is what I have already described—_pinching_. I have
seen the sleeve of a child’s dress thus pinched which had been worn by
a little girl aged three. The wrist-cuff measured about five inches
around, and was stoutly corded. Upon ripping the sleeve apart, it was
found that the strip of fine mull which was thus pinched into the
sleeve was two yards in length. The cuff flared slightly, else even
this length of sheer lawn could not have been confined at the wrist. In
the so-called “Museum,” gloomily scattered around the famous old South
Church edifice in Boston, are fine examples of this pinched work.
Christening Shirt and Mitts of Governor Bradford. Christening Shirt and
Mitts of Governor Bradford.
Many of the finest existing specimens of old guipure, Flanders, and
needlepoint laces in England and America are preserved on the ancient
shirts, mitts, caps, and bearing-cloths of infants. Often there is a
little padded bib of guipure lace accompanied with tiny mittens like
these.
Flanders Lace Mitts. Flanders Lace Mitts.
This pair was wrought and worn in the sixteenth century, and the
stitches and work are those of the Flanders point laces. I have seen
tiny mitts knitted of silk, of fine linen thread, also made of linen,
hem-stitched, or worked in drawn-work, or embroidered, and one pair of
mittens, and the cap that matched was of tatting-work done in the
finest of thread. No needlepoint could be more beautiful. Some are
shown on here.
Mitts of yellow nankeen or silk, made with long wrists or arms, were
also worn by babies, and must have proved specially irritating to tiny
little hands and arms. These had the seams sewed over and over with
colored silks in a curiously intricate netted stitch.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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