Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
I have an infant’s cap with two squares of lace set in the crown, one
over each ear. The lace is of a curious design; a conventionalized vase
or urn on a standard. I recognize it as the lace and pattern known as
“pot-lace,” made for centuries at Antwerp, and worn there by old women
on their caps with a devotion to a single pattern that is unparalleled.
It was the “flower-pot” symbol of the Annunciation. The earliest
representation of the Angel Gabriel in the Annunciation showed him with
lilies in his hand; then these lilies were set in a vase. In years the
angel has disappeared and then the lilies, and the lily-pot only
remains. It is a whimsical fancy that this symbol of Romanism should
have been carefully transferred to adorn the pate of a child of the
Puritans. The place of the medallion, set over each ear, is so unusual
that I think it must have had some significance. I wonder whether they
were ever set thus in caps of heavy silk or linen to let the child hear
more readily, as he certainly would through the thin lace net.
The word “beguine” meant a nun; and thus derivatively a nun’s close
cap. This was altered in spelling to biggin, and for a time a nun’s
plain linen cap was thus called. By Shakespere’s day biggin had become
wholly a term for a child’s cap. It was a plain phrase and a plain cap
of linen. Shakespere calls them “homely biggens.”
I have seen it stated that the biggin was a night-cap. When Queen
Elizabeth lost her mother, Anne Boleyn, she was but three years old, a
neglected little creature. A lady of the court wrote that the child had
“no manner of linen, nor for-smocks, nor kerchiefs, nor rails, nor
body-stitches, nor handkerchiefs, nor sleeves, nor mufflers, nor
biggins.”
In 1636 Mary Dudley, the daughter of Governor John Winthrop, had a
little baby. She did not live in Boston town, therefore her mother had
to purchase supplies for her; and many letters crossed, telling of
wants, and their relief. “Holland for biggins” was eagerly sought. At
that date all babies wore caps. I mean English and French, Dutch and
Spanish, all mothers deemed it unwise and almost improper for a young
baby ever to be seen bare-headed. With the imperfect heating and many
draughts in all the houses, this mode of dress may have been wholly
wise and indeed necessary. Every child’s head was covered, as the
pictures of children in this book show, until he or she was several
years old. The finest needlework and lace stitches were lavished on
these tiny infants’ caps, which were not, when thus adorned and
ornamented, called biggins.
Infant’s Adjustable Cap. Infant’s Adjustable Cap.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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