Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Jumps were allied to jimps, and perhaps to jupe; and I think jumper is
a cousin of a word. One pair of stays I have seen is labelled as having
been made for a boy of five. One of the worst instruments of torture I
ever beheld was a pair of child’s stays worn in 1760. They were made,
not of little strips of wood, but of a large piece of board, front and
back, tightly sewed into a buckram jacket and reënforced across at
right angles and diagonally over the hips (though really there were no
hip-places) with bars of whalebone and steel. The tin corsets I have
heard of would not have been half as ill to wear. It is true, too, that
needles were placed in the front of the stays, that the stay-wearer who
“poked her head” would be well pricked. The daughter of General
Nathanael Greene, the Revolutionary patriot, told her grandchildren
that she sat many hours every day in her girlhood, with her feet in
stocks and strapped to a backboard. A friend has a chair of ordinary
size, save that the seat is about four inches wide from the front edge
of seat to the back. And the back is well worn at certain points where
a heavy leather strap strapped up the young girl who was tortured in it
for six years of her life. The result of back board, stocks, steel
collar, wooden stays, is shown in such figures as have Dorothy Q. and
her sister Elizabeth. Elizabeth Storer, on page 98 of my _Child Life in
Colonial Days_, is an extreme example, straight-backed indeed, but
narrow-chested to match.
Dr. Holmes wrote in jest, but he wrote in truth, too:—
“They braced My Aunt against a board
To make her straight and tall,
They laced her up, they starved her down,
To make her light and small.
They pinched her feet, they singed her hair,
They screwed it up with pins,
Oh, never mortal suffered more
In penance for her sins.”
Nankeen Breeches with Silver Buttons. Nankeen Breeches with Silver
Buttons.
Nankeen was the favorite wear for boys, even before the Revolution. The
little figure of the boy who became Lord Lyndhurst, shown in the Copley
family portrait, is dressed in nankeen; he is the engaging, loving
child looking up in his mother’s face. Nankeen was worn summer and
winter by men, and women, and children. If it were deemed too thin and
too damp a wear for delicate children in extreme winters, then a yellow
color in wool was preferred for children’s dress. I have seen a little
pair of breeches of yellow flannel made precisely like these nankeen
breeches on this page. They were worn in 1768. Carlyle in his _Sartor
Resartus_ gives this account of the childhood of the professor and
philosopher of his book:—
“My first short clothes were of yellow serge; or rather, I should say,
my first short cloth; for the vesture was one and indivisible, reaching
from neck to ankle; a single body with four limbs; of which fashion how
little could I then divine the architectural, much less the moral
significance.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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