Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
In May, 1706, the English, led by Marlborough, gained a great victory
on the battle-field of Ramillies, and that gave the title to a new wig
described as “having a long, gradually diminishing, plaited tail,
called the ‘Ramillie-tail,’ which was tied with a great bow at the top
and a smaller one at the bottom.” The hair also bushed out at both
sides of the face. The Ramillies wig shown in Hogarth’s _Modern
Midnight Conversation_ hanging against the wall, is reproduced here.
This wig was not at first deemed full-dress. Queen Anne was deeply
offended because Lord Bolingbroke, summoned hurriedly to her, appeared
in a Ramillies wig instead of a full-bottomed peruke. The queen
remarked that she supposed next time Lord Bolingbroke would come in his
nightcap. It was the same offending nobleman who brought in the fashion
of the mean little tie-wigs.
It is stated in Read’s _Weekly Journal_ of May 1, 1736, in an account
of the marriage of the Prince of Wales, that the officers of the Horse
and Foot Guards wore Ramillies periwigs when on parade, by his
Majesty’s order. We meet in the reign of George II other forms of wigs
and other titles; the most popular was the pigtail wig. The pigtail of
this was worn hanging down the back or tied up in a knot behind. This
pigtail wig, worn for so many years, is shown here. It was popular in
the army for sixty years, but in 1804 orders were given for the pigtail
to be reduced to seven inches in length, and finally, in 1808, to be
cut off wholly, to the deep mourning of disciplinarians who deemed a
soldier without a pigtail as hopeless as a Manx cat.
“King” Carter. Died 1732. “King” Carter. Died 1732.
Bob-wigs, minor and major, came in during the reign of George II. The
bob-wig was held to be a direct imitation of the natural hair, though,
of course, it deceived no one; it was used chiefly by poorer folk. The
’prentice minor bob was close and short, the citizen’s bob major, or
Sunday buckle, had several rows of curls. All these came to America by
the hundreds—yes, by the thousands. Every profession and almost every
calling had its peculiar wig. The caricatures of the period represent
full-fledged lawyers with a towering frontlet and a long bag at the
back tied in the middle; while students of the university have a wig
flat on the top, to accommodate their stiff, square-cornered hats, and
a great bag like a lawyer’s wig at the back.
Judge Benjamin Lynde. Judge Benjamin Lynde.
“When the law lays down its full-bottom’d periwig you will find less
wisdom in bald pates than you are aware of,” says the _Choleric Man_.
This lawyer’s wig is the only one which has not been changed or
abandoned. You may see it here, on the head of Judge Benjamin Lynde of
Salem. He died in 1745. Carlyle sneers:—
“Has not your Red hanging-individual a horsehair wig, squirrel-skins,
and a plush-gown—whereby all Mortals know that he is a JUDGE?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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