Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
en’s hair on their heads hath ever been at odds with that on their
face. If the head were well covered and the hair long, then the face
was smooth shaven. William the Conqueror had short hair and a beard,
then came a long-haired king, then a cropped one; Edward IV’s subjects
had long hair and closely cut beards. Henry VII fiercely forbade
beards. The great sovereign Henry VIII ordered short hair like the
French, and wore a beard. Through Elizabeth’s day and that of James the
beard continued. Not until great perukes overshadowed the whole face
did the beard disappear. It vanished for a century as if men were
beardless; but after men began to wear short hair in the early years of
the nineteenth century, bearded men appeared. A few German mystics who
had come to America full-bearded were stared at like the elephant, and
a sight of them was recorded in a diary as a great event.
There is no doubt that, to the general reader, the ordinary thought of
the Puritan is with a beard, a face and figure much like the Hogarth
illustrations of Hudibras—one of the “Presbyterian true Blue,” “the
stubborn crew of Errant Saints,”—without the grotesquery of face and
feature, perhaps, but certainly with all the plainness and
gracelessness of dress and the commonplace beard. The wording of
Hudibras also figures the popular conception:—
“His tawny Beard was th’ equal Grace
Both of his Wisdom and his Face:
* * * * *
“His Doublet was of sturdy Buff
And tho’ not Sword, was Cudgel-Proof.
His Breeches were of rugged Woolen
And had been at the Siege of Bullen.”
Herbert Westphaling, Bishop of Hereford. Herbert Westphaling, Bishop of
Hereford.
In truth this is well enough as far as it runs and for one suit of
clothing; but this was by no means a universal dress, nor was it a
universal beard. Indeed beards were fearfully and wonderfully varied.
That humorous old rhymester, Taylor, the “Water Poet,” may be quoted at
length on the vanity thus:—
“And Some, to set their Love’s-Desire on Edge
Are cut and prun’d, like to a Quickset Hedge.
Some like a Spade, some like a Forke, some square,
Some round, some mow’d like stubble, some starke bare;
Some sharpe, Stilletto-fashion, Dagger-like,
That may with Whispering a Man’s Eyes unpike;
Some with the Hammer-cut, or Roman T.
Their Beards extravagant, reform’d must be.
Some with the Quadrate, some Triangle fashion;
Some circular, some ovall in translation;
Some Perpendicular in Longitude,
Some like a Thicket for their Crassitude,
That Heights, Depths, Breadths, Triform, Square, Ovall, Round
And Rules Geometrical in Beards are found.”
Taylor’s own beard was screw-shaped. I fancy he invented it.
The Anglo-Saxon beard was parted, and this double form remained for a
long time. Sometimes there were two twists or two long forks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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