Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
A curious pointed beard, a beard in two curls, is shown here, on James
Douglas, Earl of Morton. A still more strangely kept one, pointed in
the middle of the chin, and kept in two rolls which roll toward the
front, is upon the aged herald, here.
Richard II had a mean beard,—two little tufts on the chin known as “the
mouse-eaten beard, here a tuft, there a tuft.” The round beard “like a
half a Holland cheese” is always seen in the depictions of Falstaff; “a
great round beard” we know he had. This was easily trimmed, but others
took so much time and attention that pasteboard boxes were made to tie
over them at night, that they might be unrumpled in the morning.
The Herald Vandum. The Herald Vandum.
In the reign of Elizabeth and of James I a beard and whiskers or
mustache were universally worn. In the time of Charles I the general
effect of beard and mustache was triangular, with the mouth in the
centre, as in the portrait of Waller here.
A beard of some form was certainly universal in 1620. Often it was the
orderly natural growth shown on Winthrop’s face; a smaller tuft on the
chin with a mustache also was much worn. Many ministers in America had
this chin-tuft. Among them were John Eliot and John Davenport. The
Stuarts wore a pointed beard, carefully trimmed, and a mustache; but
the natural beard seems to have disappeared with the ruff. Charles II
clung for a time to a mustache; his portrait by Mary Beale has one; but
with the great development of the periwig came a smooth face. This
continued until the nineteenth century brought a fashion of bearded men
again; a fashion which was so abhorred, so reviled, so openly warred
with that I know of the bequest of a large estate with the absolute and
irrevocable condition that the inheritor should never wear a beard of
any form.
The hammer cut was of the reign of Charles I. It was T-shaped. In the
play, _The Queen of Corinth_, 1647, are the lines:—
“He strokes his beard
Which now he puts in the posture of a T,
The Roman T. Your T-beard is in fashion.”
The spade beard is shown here. It was called the “broad pendant,” and
was held to make a man look like a warrior. The sugar-loaf beard was
the natural form much worn by Puritans; by natural I mean not twisted
into any “strange antic forms.” The swallow-tail cut (about 1600) is
more unusual, but was occasionally seen.
“The stiletto-beard
It makes me afeard
It is so sharp beneath.
For he that doth place
A dagger in his face
What wears he in his sheath?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account