Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
An unusually fine stiletto beard is on the chin of John Endicott
(here). It was distinctly a soldier’s beard. Endicott was major-general
of the colonial forces and a severe disciplinarian. Shakespere, in
_Henry V_, speaks of “a beard of the General’s cut.” It was worn by the
Earl of Southampton (see here), and perhaps Endicott favored it on that
account. The pique-devant beard or “pick-a-devant beard, O Fine
Fashion,” was much worn. A good moderate example may be seen upon
Cousin Kilvert, with doublet and band, in the print here. An extreme
type was the beard of Robert Greene, the Elizabethan dramatist, “A
jolly long red peake like the spire of a steeple, which he wore
continually, whereat a man might hang a jewell; it was so sharp and
pendent.”
Scotch Beard. Scotch Beard.
The word “peak” was constantly used for a beard, and also the words
“spike” and “spear.” A barber is represented in an old play as asking
whether his customer will “have his peak cut short and sharp; or
amiable like an inamorato, or broad pendant like a spade; to be
terrible like a warrior and a soldado; to have his appendices primed,
or his mustachios fostered to turn about his eares like ye branches of
a vine.”
A broad square-cut beard spreading at the ends like an open fan is the
“cathedral beard” of Randle Holme, “so called because grave men of the
church did wear it.” It is often seen in portraits. One of these is
shown here.
Dr. William Slater. Cathedral Beard. Dr. William Slater. Cathedral
Beard.
In the _Life of Mrs. Elizabeth Thomas_, 1731, she writes of her
grandfather, a Turkey-merchant:—
“He was very nice in the Mode of his Age—his Valet being some hours
every morning in _Starching_ his _Beard_ and Curling his Whiskers
during which Time a Gentleman whom he maintained as Companion always
read to him upon some useful subject.”
So we may believe they really “starched” their beards, stiffened them
with some dressing. Taylor, the “Water Poet” (1640), says of beards:—
“Some seem as they were starched stiff and fine
Like to the Bristles of some Angry Swine.”
Dr. John Dee. 1600. Dr. John Dee. 1600.
Dr. Dee’s extraordinary beard I can but regard as an affectation of
singularity, assumed doubtless to attract attention, and to be a sign
of unusual parts. Aubrey, his friend, calls him “a very handsome man;
of very fair, clear, sanguine complexion, with a long beard as white as
milke. He was tall and slender. He wore a gowne like an artist’s gowne;
with hanging sleeves and a slitt. A mighty good man he was.” The word
“artist” then meant artisan; and in this reference means a smock like a
workman’s.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account