Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Of the absolute truth of every word in Stubbes’s accounts we have ample
corroborative proof. He wrote in real earnest, in true zeal, for the
reform of the foolery and extravagance he saw around him, not against
imaginary evils. There is ample proof in the writings of his
contemporaries—in Shakespere’s comparisons, in Harrison’s sensible
_Description of England_, in Tom Coryat’s _Crudities_—and oddities—of
the existence of this foolishness and extravagance. There is likewise
ample proof in the sumptuary laws of Elizabeth’s day.
It would have been the last thing the solemn Stubbes could have liked
or have imagined, that he should have afforded important help to future
writers upon costume, yet such is the case. For he described the dress
of English men and women with as much precision as a modern reporter of
the modes. No casual survey of dress could have furnished to him the
detail of his description. It required much examination and inquiry,
especially as to the minutiae of women’s dress. Therefore when I read
his bitter pages (if I can forget the little pet spaniel) I have always
a comic picture in my mind of a sour, morose, shocked old Puritan, “a
meer, bitter, narrow-sould Puritan” clad in cloak and doublet, with
great horn spectacles on nose, and ample note-book, penner, and
ink-horn in hand, agonizingly though eagerly surveying the figure of
one of his fashion-clad women neighbors, walking around her slowly,
asking as he walked the name of this jupe, the price of that pinner,
the stuff of this sleeve, the cut of this cap, groaning as he wrote it
all down, yet never turning to squire or knight till every detail of
her extravagance and “greet cost” is recorded. In spite of all his
moralizing his quill pen had too sharp a point, his scowling forehead
and fierce eyes too keen a power of vision ever to render to us a dull
page; even the author of _Wimples and Crisping Pins_ might envy his
powers of perception and description.
The bravery of the Jacobean gallant did not differ in the main from his
dress under Elizabeth; but in details he found some extravagances. The
love-locks became more prominent, and shoe-roses and garters both grew
in size. Pomanders were carried by men and women, and
“casting-bottles.” Gloves and pockets were perfumed. As musk was the
favorite scent this perfume-wearing is not over-alluring. As a
preventive of the plague all perfumes were valued.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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