Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
The jack-boots of Stuart days seem absolutely imperishable. They are of
black, jacked leather like the leather bottles and black-jacks from
which Englishmen drank their ale. So closely are they alike that I do
not wonder a French traveller wrote home that Englishmen drank from
their boots. These jack-boots were as solid and unpliable as iron,
square-toed and clumsy of shape. A pair in perfect preservation which
belonged to Lord Fairfax in Virginia is portrayed here. Had all
colonial gentlemen worn jack-boots, the bootmakers and shoemakers would
have been ruined, for a pair would last a lifetime.
Shoe and Knee Buckles. Shoe and Knee Buckles.
In 1767 we find William Cabell of Virginia paying these prices for his
finery:—
£ s. d. 1 Pair single channelled boots with straps 1 2 1
Pair Strong Buckskin Breeches 1 10 2 Pairs Fashionable Chain
Silver Spurs 2 10 1 Pair Silver Buttons 6 1 fine
Magazine Blue Cloth Housing laced 12 1 Strong Double
Bridle 4 6 6 Pair Men’s fine Silk Hose 4 4 Buttons
&; trimmings for a coat 5 2
New England dandies wore, as did Monsieur A-la-mode:—
“A pair of smart pumps made up of grain’d leather,
So thin he can’t venture to tread on a feather.”
Buckles were made of pinchbeck, an alloy of four parts of copper and
one part of zinc, invented by Christopher Pinchbeck, a London
watchmaker of the eighteenth century. Buckles were also “plaited” and
double “plaited” with gold and silver (which was the general spelling
of plated). Plated buckles were cast in pinchbeck, with a pattern on
the surface. A silver coating was laid over this. These buckles were
set with marcasite, garnet, and paste jewels; sometimes they were of
gold with real diamonds. But much imitation jewellery was worn by all
people even of great wealth. Perhaps imitation is an incorrect word.
The old paste jewels made no assertion of being diamonds. Steel cut in
facets and combined with gold, made beautiful buckles. A number of rich
shoe and garter buckles, owned in Salem, are shown here.
These old buckles were handsome, costly, dignified; they were becoming;
they were elegant. Nevertheless, the fashionable world tired of its
expensive and appropriate buckles; they suddenly were deemed
inconveniently large, and plain shoe-strings took their place. This
caused great commotion and ruin among the buckle-makers, who, with the
fatuity of other tradespeople—the wig-makers, the hair-powder makers—in
like calamitous changes of fashion, petitioned the Prince of Wales, in
1791, to do something to revive their vanishing trade. But it was like
placing King Canute against the advancing waves of the sea.
Wedding Slippers. Wedding Slippers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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